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Thread: Out with the old | In with the new

  1. #51
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South Bay, CA
    Posts
    258

    Default

    A few more I missed:

    - Mounted the horns. If you have a keen eye you can see them in the 4th pic. I had to make some nuts to get these to attach to the mounts I bought (originally for other reasons). The mounts just look like a big p-clip basically, but are thicker (made of aluminum)
    - Installed crank pulley and dry sump mandrel/belt. No big drama here. I was just waiting until I was mostly confident the engine wouldn't need to come out again.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South Bay, CA
    Posts
    258

    Default Getting Close!!!

    I'm almost there!!!

    I have only a handful of assembly steps left and most of the wiring is complete. The main engine harness is being made by a company in MI and should be at my house next week. It had to go through one loop of adjustments, but should be good to go now. The only remaining wiring is for the alternator, tach, and CEL. These all require the engine harness.

    From the attached pic you can see how gigantic the engine computer is (sitting on the pedal box). I had not planned well for such a large brick. I think GM must have gone out of their way to make it big. The harness is also big which is going to be a challenge to package neatly. I'll do what I can and plan on some future cleanup after it's running.

    I hooked the boost control solenoid up to the vacuum pump which is driven off the intake cam. This is a bit of an experiment to see if I can manage to pull the WG open at part load to help fuel economy (yeah, I know, wtf). It's super easy to undo if it doesn't prove fruitful and that would allow me to pull the pump. The pump came with the engine which was meant for the european market originally. I think the newer ecotecs in the US have this now too. I assume it's mostly to avoid a loss of brakes if the throttle sticks open.

    I realized today that the turbine housing was not tightened to the center housing of the turbo...DOH! Thankfully I had not added fluids yet so it just required pulling a few easy to remove parts. It also forced me to try removing some of the parts (water and oil lines mainly) without pulling the exhaust. This turned out to be helpful and I found a way to remove one of the turbo water lines with the turbo in the car (a feat I had previously concluded was impossible).

    As you can see the engine bay is full. I think I've managed to leave enough space between parts, but there is no excess space anywhere. When I started I knew this would become an issue, but I had a pleasant level of denial at the beginning. In the end I think I've successfully proven you can fit 10lbs of shit in a 5lb bag!

    With any luck next weekend will be fluids and cranking for the first time!

    Daniel
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  3. #53
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South Bay, CA
    Posts
    258

    Default

    One more step closer!

    FYI, in case anyone needs this info in the future, the CEL is activated by ground.

    The only things that appear to be an issue are the horns which I believe are not grounded properly, and the fog light. I'm not sure if the fog light is wired on US cars, but the connector was there so I bought one and hooked it up, but no dice.

    Daniel
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  4. #54
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South Bay, CA
    Posts
    258

    Default

    It's difficult to see, but a keen eye may have noticed my oil pressure was 8bar in the picture! When I wired the ground I assumed the clutch switch wire would be grounded since I have no clutch switch. It turns out it was an open circuit. The good news is that Caterham ran the wires within an inch of where the clutch switch would go. All I had to do was pull back some electrical tape to expose the wires, connect them, and wrap it back up. Now my oil pressure and water temp sensors are properly grounded .

    Daniel

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