Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: oil cooler

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    The Frozen Northeast
    Posts
    572

    Default oil cooler

    Our seven's boffins have recommended I install an oil cooler in my (stock) 1.9L duratec.
    Does anyone have recommendations for thermostatic plate connector, plumbing (AN -6 or -8) & size of oil cooler appropriately sized for our cars ?

    cheers
    P.
    Last edited by wemtd; 10-23-2020 at 06:35 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    155

    Default

    Are you coming to the Litchfield drive tomorrow? You can look at the installation in my car. It uses a oil filter bypass adapter and an oil cooler in front of the radiator.
    Jay

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    5,253

    Default

    First time I have been called a boffin. Normally beefcake...



    Paul - try these guys. Their stuff is quality. Much Mocal from BAT in many of my cars.
    http://www.mocal.co.uk/products.html

    The USA distributor is here - phone call is best
    B.A.T. inc. - Sarasota, FL, USA | Tel: (941) 355-0005


    Last edited by Croc; 10-23-2020 at 07:31 PM.
    Mike
    2021 Caterham CSR "CatKong"
    2010 Caterham CSR with Cosworth 2.3 Duratec
    2018 Caterham 420R with 2L Duratec 210hp at Donington UK
    1975 BMW CSL Group 4 (restoration finished - track set up time)
    1977 Holden Torana "A9X" (awaiting restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore SS Group A (suspension restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore Group A (suspension set up)
    1982 Ferrari 400i (radiator replacement)
    1965 Ford Mustang Fastback "Holman Moody"
    1992 Ford Escort RS Cosworth WRC (dyno time)
    1990 Range Rover 2 door Classic


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    308

    Default

    I'm surprised that you need one on a Duratec. It's a beautifully engineered motor. I am running a 2.3l Duratec with stock compression. I have been running in some mid-90s temps over the last couple of months in SoCal and have never seen 200F on the oil temp (measured in the Raceline oil filter adapter with a VDO sender and gauge). I am also running a Davies-Craig electric water pump and that has kept the coolant temp under 220F on the hottest days in traffic. Normal coolant temp might run as high as 200F.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    5,253

    Default

    To be honest I was surprised to see Paul up in the 220-230F range in a warm tune engine. Paul was also running quite hard - fastest I have seen him lap. There were no coolant temp issues.

    Oil temps can be influenced by a range of items:
    - overfilling a wet sump engine to avoid surge on a track
    - where you measure the temps
    - choice of oil weight
    Mike
    2021 Caterham CSR "CatKong"
    2010 Caterham CSR with Cosworth 2.3 Duratec
    2018 Caterham 420R with 2L Duratec 210hp at Donington UK
    1975 BMW CSL Group 4 (restoration finished - track set up time)
    1977 Holden Torana "A9X" (awaiting restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore SS Group A (suspension restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore Group A (suspension set up)
    1982 Ferrari 400i (radiator replacement)
    1965 Ford Mustang Fastback "Holman Moody"
    1992 Ford Escort RS Cosworth WRC (dyno time)
    1990 Range Rover 2 door Classic


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    The Frozen Northeast
    Posts
    572

    Default

    yes; under normal driving oil temp is <200F. water temp remains ~180-190. however on track i was seeing temps inching towards 240
    So with some flogging on track it's time for another upgrade...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    308

    Default

    Sorry, didn't mean to sound snarky. I have a neighbor who is a retired senior engineer for Garret (turbochargers). We have discussed the issue of oil weight at length and he strongly recommended 0w40 synthetic for the Duratec. I show about 85-90psi cold/20psi hot at idle. Above 3000rpm it's 85-90psi cold/60psi hot. With the bDavies-Craig coolant controller, the engine warms up quickly and remains quite temperature stable after that. Another advantage is the coolant pump continues to run through a cool-down program once the engine is shut down. I raced Formula Vees for a number of years through the era when synthetic lubes were new to the market. We all came to rely on synthetic oils, particularly for their durability at higher temps.

    Are you running a Raceline wet sump? They are sufficiently baffled to allow you to run with a 5 liter fill in the Duratec with out a problem. If you are seeing a pressure drop-off in competition, I would plumb in an Accusump. I used t run a 944 at Lime Rock and the Accusump was a great help in turn 1 there.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    The Frozen Northeast
    Posts
    572

    Default

    Not at all snarky, i was filling in a few details I had left out.
    Honestly, all this talk about lubricants our resident petroleum engineer's ears must be burning. Other than just over-sizing the pluming with options ranging from AN -6 to -12 referenced I'm at a loss to determine the best hose sizes to use? I've seen it reported that most oil pumps are 8-9Gal/min. However I haven't located a definitive figure for my engine regardless of rpm/oil temp. Using a thermostatic sandwich plate I wouldn't expect the system will see than full pump flow, but how much I haven't the foggiest idea.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    The Frozen Northeast
    Posts
    572

    Default

    Update: I measured the holes in the engine entering the filter adapter: They are 15mm ID so ~AN9. which I take to mean AN08 size is just fine... More to come once I actually complete something.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    23

    Default

    If your coolant temperature isn't to high and the oil pressure is dropping at high RPM you might have a lot of air in your oil. The spinning crankshaft can cause the problem if the oil level is too high or the pan isn't baffled properly. If you are using synthetic oil and the temperature is below 240 there shouldn't be a problem. That doesn't mean you wouldn't want a oil cooler to knock that down to 220. You need the oil to get hot enough to get the water out. Doing that will reduce the load on the cooling system. The other possibility is the engine oil is collecting in the top of the engine and not draining back. If that is the issue it is very easy to damage the engine. I do not know what type of engine you have, but I am not aware of drain back problems with the popular Ford engines used in our cars. Some engines need to restrict the amount of oil going to the top of the engine and or improve the drain back. All engines have a little blow by. Make sure your breather system is working and there isn't a lot of blow by.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •