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Thread: Fluids: Oil, gasoline, bourbon

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    110

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    Just thought I'd close the loop on this thread. I completed the fuel line replacement this past weekend. Removed the center tunnel cover, drilled out all of the rivets that hold the aluminum plate over the rear section. Got the old line out, which looked like this:

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    Pump to rubber to plastic to braided to braided to carb. 5 connections in total. Replaced with one length of rubber fuel line, and tidied up fuel pump power wire while I was in there:

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    Of course I knocked several wire connections loose while doing this, so when I was done I had no ignition, then ignition but no starter. Finally got it all back together and started it up at around 7:00pm. Went in the house and told my wife "I hate that car".

    Next day tuned up the carbs (I had them off over the winter to fix some stuff). Engine running beautifully. Went for a blat (as they say). Came in the house and told my wife "I don't hate that car anymore".
    1997 Caterham, BDA
    1991 Miata, supercharged
    2017 VW GTI

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    422

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    Congratulations. I'm going through a similar starter issue also. Makes me look at Miata ads, especially white ones.

    Of course what makes it worse is that we are having lovely weather that is not 100 degrees. Every good driving day missed is not coming back around until November.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Seven + NA Miata + GTI = always something fun up and running to drive.

    Quote Originally Posted by panamericano View Post
    Congratulations. I'm going through a similar starter issue also. Makes me look at Miata ads, especially white ones.

    Of course what makes it worse is that we are having lovely weather that is not 100 degrees. Every good driving day missed is not coming back around until November.
    1997 Caterham, BDA
    1991 Miata, supercharged
    2017 VW GTI

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    233

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    To route and confidently secure the hose, you'll likely need more access than what removing the tunnel top will provide. In the past, in a CSR, we have managed to remove the tunnel side panel on the driver's side. Once that was done, we could remove the driveshaft, and then install a new hard fuel-line in the tunnel. It's a grunt, for sure.

    Croc is right about the hose - even fuel-rated hose has permeability over time. The newer SAE specs (J30 R7) can handle the ethanol that is found in most fuels now, and promises better permeability performance. I would consider a hard line in the tunnel, flared for -6AN at both ends. Then, to integrate with the undoubtedly barb-connected stuff in the engine compartment and back at the fuel-tank, consider using Earls new Vapor Guard line of hose and fittings. The product is specifically designed for user-friendly install, and solves the sweating fuel problem. The system offers fittings (including barb-to-AN), and specific smooth-bore hose clamps for their fittings.

    Cheers,
    -Bruce
    Last edited by BruceBe; 04-15-2020 at 03:16 PM.
    Beachman Racing
    Authorized Caterham Cars dealer

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Laurel MD
    Posts
    172

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    I did a fuel line swap on my Locost when I went to a return based system. I used the hard lines to AN -6 fittings, mounted with P clips along the funnel. It came out nice with 2 AN fitting poking out from either and of the tunnel. I then used the Superflex soft lines for rest of the way.

    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...pID=PLUMANFLEX

    Graham

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