Page 14 of 20 FirstFirst ... 41213141516 ... LastLast
Results 131 to 140 of 193

Thread: New Build

  1. #131
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Next step is to attach the shocks, but you can't access the holes to mount the roll bar through the chassis from beneath with the shocks installed.

    Oh those tricky Brits...

    Thankfully I noticed otherwise it would be annoying to learn I needed to dismantle the rear suspension later in the build.

    So here it is with the roll bar installed:

    Name:  IMG_3608.jpg
Views: 303
Size:  74.4 KB
    Last edited by Pokey; 05-06-2020 at 09:00 PM.
    Greg

  2. #132
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Albany, NY
    Posts
    299

    Default

    That honeycomb was a royal pita to move in and out with everything in.

    With that said, question. What is the material that you used between the tank and the frame. Soft double sided 3M molding type material?

    Mine disintegrated while I was troubleshooting a gas leak and was looking to replace it. Wasn't sure what it was. With you experience can I lift the tank from below and slide new material under or is this a bigger tank out job?
    2001 Caterham Superlight R

  3. #133
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Seattle-ish
    Posts
    1,343

    Default

    I'm surprised Caterham doesn't supply the boot floor in two pieces so it can be easily removed from above for maintenance access. I did my floor that way when building the larger custom boot box, and it has come in handy on a few occasions.

    Glad you figured out the assembly order of the roll bar and suspension before it was too late.

    -John
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  4. #134
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    429

    Default

    The original owner of my Birkin cut the fiberglass bottom out of the boot, leaving about an inch of floor around the perimeter. That holds the thick aluminum that is the new floor. It lifts out easily with a paint can opener, giving good access to everything below.

  5. #135
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Higganum, CT
    Posts
    1,694

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnCh View Post
    I'm surprised Caterham doesn't supply the boot floor in two pieces so it can be easily removed from above for maintenance access. I did my floor that way when building the larger custom boot box, and it has come in handy on a few occasions.
    John - The Caterham floor is in two sections. There's the honeycomb section in the rear and a smaller plywood section in front with I believe an aluminum channel in between. The honeycomb is still a little difficult to remove without damaging the paint/powder coat on the chassis.
    Bruce

  6. #136
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Seattle-ish
    Posts
    1,343

    Default

    Thanks. I took the comment that the honeycomb has to be fitted prior to the fuel tank to mean that dropping in from above is difficult due to space constraints.

    -John
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  7. #137
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vovchandr View Post
    That honeycomb was a royal pita to move in and out with everything in.

    With that said, question. What is the material that you used between the tank and the frame. Soft double sided 3M molding type material?

    Mine disintegrated while I was troubleshooting a gas leak and was looking to replace it. Wasn't sure what it was. With you experience can I lift the tank from below and slide new material under or is this a bigger tank out job?
    Screwed down, no adhesive. I could not figure out a way to get the honeycomb out from the top, so am assuming it was installed from below first and then the tank.
    Greg

  8. #138
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 11Budlite View Post
    John - The Caterham floor is in two sections. There's the honeycomb section in the rear and a smaller plywood section in front with I believe an aluminum channel in between. The honeycomb is still a little difficult to remove without damaging the paint/powder coat on the chassis.
    I tried every angle I could think of and every time it wedged against the painted skin that wraps around the frame along the opening of the boot. Maybe desperation would have given me inspiration, but all I needed was enough room to work with the dremel so I didn't push my luck.
    Greg

  9. #139
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Today was rear suspension day. No drama, but if there was a video of me with that A frame and you sped it up just a little I think it would pass as an episode of Benny Hill. I'd shim with washers to get the axle centered, measure, nod in satisfaction, torque, measure, mumble to myself, disassemble and repeat. Ironically, when all was said and done I wound up with an equal number of washers on both sides.

    Name:  IMG_3627.jpg
Views: 142
Size:  61.3 KB

    Name:  IMG_3622.jpg
Views: 141
Size:  56.1 KB

    Name:  IMG_3628.jpg
Views: 143
Size:  72.7 KB
    Greg

  10. #140
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Wellsboro, PA
    Posts
    81

    Default

    Hi Greg, nice progress, I see you put in the A Frame. I hope you didn't make the same mistake I did and put it in upside down. LOL. I only noticed the difference in the guide after I put it in. Oh well, it wasn't the only time I had to pull something off and put it on again.

    Keep up the good work!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •