Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20

Thread: tractive electronic damper installation

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Austria Salzburg
    Posts
    13

    Default tractive electronic damper installation

    Got my dampers a few days ago, this will be the installation.
    Eylets of the dampers are pretty thick and I hope they do not interfere with the rocker or chassis?
    The front reservoir tube connection I hope does not interfere with the vertical chassis tube. Will see when the car is on the ground. Bolts are not tight yet.
    The Controller wil be under the scuttle. Electronic not connectd.
    Will keep you updated.

    Name:  2019-12-27 09.35.57.jpg
Views: 346
Size:  89.9 KB

    Name:  2019-12-27 09.38.56.jpg
Views: 339
Size:  51.2 KB Name:  2019-12-27 10.12.41.jpg
Views: 345
Size:  43.7 KB

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    5,141

    Default

    Hi Hanns Per - How exactly are you proposing to install the control panel display? You say the controller is under the scuttle? If so how will you make changes for the 6 presets? I think I misunderstand? Thanks mike
    Mike
    2010 Caterham CSR with Cosworth 2.3 Duratec
    2018 Caterham 420R with 2L Duratec 210hp at Donington UK
    1975 BMW CSL Group 4 (restoration finished - track set up time)
    1977 Holden Torana "A9X" (awaiting restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore SS Group A (suspension restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore Group A (suspension set up)
    1982 Ferrari 400i (radiator replacement)
    1965 Ford Mustang Fastback "Holman Moody"
    1992 Ford Escort RS Cosworth WRC (dyno time)
    1990 Range Rover 2 door Classic
    and another project car coming....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Austria Salzburg
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Hello Mike, the contoller will be positioned as You can see on the picture between the scuttle wall and the swoopy dash. Simon from raceshocks said he installs it infront of the scuttle wall in the engine bay, but I want it where it is on the picture.
    The display for setting up (I think there are only 5 presets) will be put into the dash in the middle infront ot the gearstick, will see if it is enough to make the presets via display or if I will use the knob. It will depend how easy one can make the settings when driving on a small display. On the other hand I assume once all the presets are made changes will be minimal if at all. How is Your installation going? Will provide more pics as I progress Hanns Per
    Last edited by repsna; 12-27-2019 at 04:53 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    5,141

    Default

    Thank you for clarifying. Initially I thought you were meaning the digital display was under the scuttle with the controller which is a pain to remove and access (is drill out rivets, etc). but I understand your thinking now. For me, have not started anything yet.
    Mike
    2010 Caterham CSR with Cosworth 2.3 Duratec
    2018 Caterham 420R with 2L Duratec 210hp at Donington UK
    1975 BMW CSL Group 4 (restoration finished - track set up time)
    1977 Holden Torana "A9X" (awaiting restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore SS Group A (suspension restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore Group A (suspension set up)
    1982 Ferrari 400i (radiator replacement)
    1965 Ford Mustang Fastback "Holman Moody"
    1992 Ford Escort RS Cosworth WRC (dyno time)
    1990 Range Rover 2 door Classic
    and another project car coming....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    3

    Default

    How are things going with the tractive electronic dampers? Any update or observations to share?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Austria Salzburg
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Instalation finished I will bring the car on the ground next week and strat the system and hope to be on the road 2-3 weeks keep you updated anso with pics

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    587

    Default

    Curious -- Is there a reason the front and rear dampers are installed inverted relative to one another? Looks like limited room on either end!
    Sean

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    171

    Default

    With any shock absorber you typically want to mount it such that the "spring end" is mounted to the suspension arm (or rocker, as shown in the first photo in post #1). This keeps the (heavier, fluid-filled) body of the shock relatively still while the lighter spring and shaft of the shock do all the rapid movement. That way the oil in the shock is agitated less which can reduce foaming of the oil. This also reduces unsprung weight in conventional, direct (no rocker) mounting to a suspension arm such as that shown in the photo of the rear suspension (second photo) in post #1.
    Last edited by Nick O'Teen; 04-03-2020 at 02:24 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    5,141

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick O'Teen View Post
    With any shock absorber you typically want to mount it such that the "spring end" is mounted to the suspension arm (or rocker, as shown in the first photo in post #1). This keeps the (heavier, fluid-filled) body of the shock relatively still while the lighter spring and shaft of the shock do all the rapid movement. That way the oil in the shock is agitated less which can reduce foaming of the oil. This also reduces unsprung weight in conventional, direct (no rocker) mounting to a suspension arm such as that shown in the photo of the rear suspension (second photo) in post #1.
    Excellent summary - thank you!
    Mike
    2010 Caterham CSR with Cosworth 2.3 Duratec
    2018 Caterham 420R with 2L Duratec 210hp at Donington UK
    1975 BMW CSL Group 4 (restoration finished - track set up time)
    1977 Holden Torana "A9X" (awaiting restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore SS Group A (suspension restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore Group A (suspension set up)
    1982 Ferrari 400i (radiator replacement)
    1965 Ford Mustang Fastback "Holman Moody"
    1992 Ford Escort RS Cosworth WRC (dyno time)
    1990 Range Rover 2 door Classic
    and another project car coming....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    240

    Default

    It's all about minimizing unsprung weight. Please describe how fluid is "sloshing". Foaming is caused by cavitation and heat.

    Cheers,
    -Bruce
    Beachman Racing
    Authorized Caterham Cars dealer

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •