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Thread: Chasing oil leaks

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
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    456

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    The dry sump crossflow in my Mallock leaks like a sieve. I pulled the engine to replace the sump gasket, but it didn't really help. I think it was a combination of my skill (or lack thereof) and using a cork gasket.

    It has a steel pan, and I've purchased a competition sump gasket set from Burton, which I'm hoping will help. https://www.burtonpower.com/competit...a-fp713kc.html

    I've also had an issue with the sump pan bolts loosening up, so I check/tighten them up between sessions.

    I think for some or all of the aluminum sumps, it's suggested that you only use silicone gasket, like "The Right Stuff".

    The distributor is also a potential leak spot.

    Steve

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
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    And FWIW, the wet sump Crossflow in my Seven also leaked like crazy when I purchased the car. Since I had the engine rebuilt, it's been dry as a bone. So, I think you can get these sealed up.

    Steve

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
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    Hmmm... according to this listing on Pegasus, the cork ends are better for dry sump engines. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=3576

    As usual, I guess it depends on who you ask, and what their experience has been.

    Steve

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Laurel MD
    Posts
    177

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    I would use Oetiker clamps, constant tension, does not damage the hose. I use them on any hose I will not be removing as part of routine maintenance. Pegasus sell then as do McMaster Carr.
    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3295

    Graham

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    111

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    Just posting to say that I took the pan off this weekend, and totally understand now about the cork and rubber gasket configuration. Pegasus sells a kit with all 4 parts:

    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=25651

    I understand about RTV where the gaskets meet. This is standard practice on an NA Miata cam cover gasket. Even though it's one gasket, it transitions from planar to going around the cam ends, so same kind of potential leak point.

    Just want to confirm - the Aviator #3 (Permatex) is a better option than RTV for the rest of the gasket?

    Also, I'll search for this, but do happen to know the torque specs for the bolts for a steel pan?


    Quote Originally Posted by TheDingo8MyBaby View Post
    I forgot to ask - do you have an aluminum dry-sump pan or a steel one?

    Here are the saddle seals I was referring to: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10906 (Rear in this case and there is a note about the aluminum vs. steel pans).

    If is leaking from the rear main - removal is definitely required. Doing an on pan underneath the car isn't fun but can be done. It all depends on how much access you have. You may be able to loosen the motor mounts and move the engine to get to those hoses. without completely removing the motor.

    I like to use a very small amount of "the right stuff" by permatex where the flat gaskets meet the saddle gaskets. I used loctite aviation No 3 to secure the cork gaskets in place. Some people say good things about Cometic gaskets, but I've never used them.

    80 PSI is high, but not awful. Your oil pump likely has a pressure release valve you can try adjusting.


    I once saw a 65 mustang with an industrial ball valve pumbed into his sump tank. He had a big note over his ignition key that said "Did you open the sump valve?!?!" Even then, I'd be worried about the restriction of the valve.
    1997 Caterham, BDA
    1991 Miata, supercharged
    2017 VW GTI

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    111

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    Update:

    I have replaced the oil pan gaskets, and just finished last week replacing the two tubes at the front left side of the engine. Those were quite a pain to do, as there wasn't enough room around the male fittings on the head and block for the tubes and clamps to fit.



    I had ordered and received tubes from Dave Bean Engineering, and strangely the smaller one had a .50" ID, but the bosses on my engine were 7/16" OD. Maybe that's why it was leaking so much? So I bought some 7/16" fuel line, and Dremeled the OD down at one end to make it fit in the tight space. Used Gates Power Grip clamps on both hoses, as someone recommended to me on LOTUS7.NET.




    A week later, maybe a couple of drops in my oil trays under the car. Used to leak puddles in a week's time. Success!

    1997 Caterham, BDA
    1991 Miata, supercharged
    2017 VW GTI

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