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Thread: 2.0L Duratec Rebuild

  1. #151
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    Jan 2020
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    That intake and your custom headers really make a conversation piece!
    Greg

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Seattle-ish
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    1,475

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    Henry, it's frustrating, but it should be an easy bolt to source at the local hardware store.

    Thanks Greg, but I'm hoping it's the full throttle experience that will be the conversation piece

    The gasket for the oil filter adapter is handled. It's a standard Ford part and should arrive in a few days. Of course, that is offset by the realization that I never obtained the O-ring size for the Jenveys (they seal the DTHTBs to the head). Although the current ones appear fine, they are older and could be on the way out. It seems prudent to pop in new ones, which is easier to do now then after the engine is installed. I'll call Jenvey in the morning to see if they'll provide me with the size, then I'll source them here.

    I spent more time looking at the dipstick this afternoon. I'm beginning to think it might be worthwhile to have that engine mount modified to provide more room for the fitting and avoid headaches down the road. On the surface it seems as simple as cutting out a small section that's interfering and having some material welded back in to seal it off, but I want to ensure that I'm not compromising strength. I'll take some pictures later and ask for feedback.

    -John
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    N. California
    Posts
    127

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    John,
    When I built my motor I ordered a ton of O-rings from from "The O-Ring Store" (oring@theoringstore.com). The O-rings I used for my early SBD/Jenveys, which appear identical to your ITB's, were P/N V75135; AS568-135 V75 FKM. The O-ring Store is even in your neck of the woods.

    Andy

  4. #154
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    Jan 2006
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    Thanks Andy, that helps. I tried Jenvey this morning but after some hemming and hawing was told I need to go to Raceline for that information. It almost sounded as if they weren't certain they didn't do something specific for Raceline's version back then. Next I tried Peter at Raceline but kept getting voicemail so sent an email. I'll check out that part number, take some measurements from my current ones and go from there.

    -John
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Seattle-ish
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    Peter just answered my email. The O-ring size is 47.6mm x 2.4mm. Assuming the first number is ID vs. OD, the O-rings you posted above will fit. Ordering them now.

    Edited: when placing the order, I noticed they have a metric section. Turns out they have the exact size Peter specified, so went with those in a couple of different compounds.

    Thanks,
    John
    Last edited by JohnCh; 06-15-2020 at 08:59 AM. Reason: updated info
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Seattle-ish
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    Here are some photos of the engine mount and the area I'm thinking of cutting away (noted by the black sharpie), then having a local fabricator patch up with steel stock of the same thickness. Any feedback on this approach? It seems to me that the strength wouldn't be unduly compromised, but that area is on the bottom, and my structural expertise is limited to what I've seen on Motor Trend TV. Is there any risk that the heat from the process could slightly warp the mount? Again, it doesn't seem to me like it would based on size and location, but anything that leads to misalignment with existing mounting points would be bad.

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    Thanks,
    John
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Seattle-ish
    Posts
    1,475

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    I've been having trouble getting in touch with the welder I've previously used, so revisited dipstick placement last night. With a little grinding of material from the alternator mount and re-clocking the fitting at the base of the dipstick where it screws into the sump, I have "just" enough clearance to make this work as-is. With everything torqued, the very top of the fitting and the bottom of the engine mount touch (barely), but there isn't any pressure exerted onto the fitting. I think I'll stick with this for now and see how it works in practice. Next step is to fabricate the mount that holds the top of the dipstick tube in place. I haven't done that kind of work in a while and am looking forward to it. If it turns out ok, I'll post a photo. If not, I'll simply mention it in passing

    The gasket for the oil filter adapter arrived yesterday, so that's now fitted, and the O-rings for the DTHTBs also arrived and will be test fit tonight.

    -John
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Seattle-ish
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    My original intent for the oil dipstick's upper mount was to use aluminum sheet and perform a little origami magic to add strength. Unfortunately I didn't have any on hand and was too lazy to make the trek to Home Depot or Lowes, so repurposed an old bracket made years ago from a piece of 1/8" aluminum stock. It's a little dinged up, but after some sanding it's acceptable for a part not easily visible from above. The mount attaches to the engine via one of the thermostat housing bolts. Given that's a low torque fastener, a lock washer was added to (hopefully) counteract any potential loosening stemming from repeated oil level checks. Amazing how much time and effort has been invested to correct an issue resulting from a simple oversight when the engine mounts were fabricated years ago. Fingers crossed this version actually works and is drip free.

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    I finally settled on how to route the wires for the AEM X-series WBO2 sensor. As mentioned previously, they assume it's going into a car significantly larger than a se7en and install a very long wiring harness on the O2 sensor end. I'm reluctant to introduce a failure point by splicing those wires, so have opted to keep them in tact and route them around the front of the engine bay. They can always be shortened later should I determine that's a better approach.

    -John
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    297

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    I just went through this with my Innovate wideband sensor and controller. The shortest cable they offer is about 48". I had to send my controller and sensor back to them for testing and calibration verification. They couldn't shorten the cable for me. They said that since their proprietary technology produces such a fast response time, the inherent resistance in the cables and connectors is factored into the engineering solution. Whenever I shorten a cable, I use a Weatherpak connector. Yes, they are a bit bulky but the soldered connection is protected within the connector. I have never been able to measure ANY resistance in these connectors when properly assembled and I have never had one fail.

    I'll have my car running this weekend. Once I verify the validity of the 02 signal, I plan on testing a sensor with a shortened cable. My O2 sensor (a proprietary Bosch unitThe longer cable, from the controller to the sensor cable connector, is the real problem. This I neatly coil, zip tie and position in the bottom of the electrical bay (I have a Birkin). If I can find the weird boxy connector that they use to fabricate the long cable, I may try to put together a shorter one and test it. That would lighten the car another 4 ounces.
    Last edited by papak; 06-19-2020 at 12:23 PM.

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    297

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    I like your dipstick solution. What type of dipstick is it, blade or wire? I used a similar solution but due to a different motor mount style, I stabilized mine to the firewall next to the steering shaft.
    Last edited by papak; 06-19-2020 at 12:47 PM.

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