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Thread: 2.0L Duratec Rebuild

  1. #181
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    NYC
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    Run in time!
    Mike
    2010 Caterham CSR with Cosworth 2.3 Duratec
    2018 Caterham 420R with 2L Duratec 210hp at Donington UK
    1975 BMW CSL Group 4 (restoration finished - track set up time)
    1977 Holden Torana "A9X" (awaiting restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore SS Group A (suspension restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore Group A (suspension set up)
    1982 Ferrari 400i (radiator replacement)
    1965 Ford Mustang Fastback "Holman Moody"
    1992 Ford Escort RS Cosworth WRC (dyno time)
    1990 Range Rover 2 door Classic
    and another project car coming....

  2. #182
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Higganum, CT
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    Congrats John! I'm sure it's been a challenging project for you but it's been an interesting and educational read for me. Thanks!
    Bruce

  3. #183
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    I occasionally get asked why it took me over 2 years to put my Birkin together. It is not only the appropriate attention to detail, but a driving curiosity about all of the components and processes involved in such a complex project. I too had similar questions about the discrepancies in torque values, wiring issues and cooling strategy (among many topics), much of which I have sought the help of members of this forum on. Our fellow forum members have been the greatest single asset in the journey. One can't help but acquire a host of new skills in the course of the project, an aspect I was much looking forward to. After having spent the first month of the quarantine resolving an oxygen sensor issue and rebuilding my transmission, I am in the last few days of fabricating an aluminum boot compartment. I'll post some pics of that project in a few days. Glad to hear you're getting back on the road. I should be metaphorically joining you by the weekend.

  4. #184
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    NYC
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    Very well said Papak! Thumbs up!
    Mike
    2010 Caterham CSR with Cosworth 2.3 Duratec
    2018 Caterham 420R with 2L Duratec 210hp at Donington UK
    1975 BMW CSL Group 4 (restoration finished - track set up time)
    1977 Holden Torana "A9X" (awaiting restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore SS Group A (suspension restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore Group A (suspension set up)
    1982 Ferrari 400i (radiator replacement)
    1965 Ford Mustang Fastback "Holman Moody"
    1992 Ford Escort RS Cosworth WRC (dyno time)
    1990 Range Rover 2 door Classic
    and another project car coming....

  5. #185
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Seattle-ish
    Posts
    1,456

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    This thread is a great example of our tribal knowledge. Along the way several people have either provided answers to head scratching questions or valuable input based on first-hand experience. It's certainly made my life a lot easier.

    Papak, I also fabricated my boot box out of aluminum. It was an interesting challenge that taught me some new skills I've since forgotten, and enabled me to correct limitations of the original design. In hindsight I would have done it a little differently, but that's just an opportunity to attempt v2 in the future. I'm looking foreword to seeing your pictures.

    I still haven't had a chance to perform the break-in drive, but did find a couple of oil leaks. First is coming from the blue sump plug that provides access to the finger filter ahead of the oil pump. This one is a surprise given its torqued to spec, was fitted with a new washer, and was never a problem in the past. I'll investigate when I do the initial oil change in ~50 miles. If it's not obvious, I'll probably use a little thread sealant. The other leak(s) isn't a surprise. My sump has always been extremely difficult to seal. Taking a closer look this time when it was off revealed a number of tiny pin holes along the mating surface. I suspect that my early sump may not be up to Raceline's later quality standards making this aspect a bigger challenge. After the drive, I'll investigate more thoroughly to determine if it's coming down the threads of a fastener or if it's seeping from the mating surfaces, and go from there.

    Looking at the leaks did surface an installation goof. I forget to attach the grounding strap to the block. Oops. Easy fix, but might have contributed to the initial rough running.

    -John
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  6. #186
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    N. California
    Posts
    119

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    John,
    Congratulations on getting the car running again . If you have pinholes/porosity in the sump casting Loctite 290 and Primer T is your friend! Find your leak, clean it up w/ some brake clean, blast it off w/ air, apply some Primer T, let it flash off, then apply some 290. It works well for sealing casting flaws. Be careful though, a friend of mine managed to virtually glue the engine to the tub of a race car years back. The stuff wicked down the bore of the mounting bosses and bonded quite well to some long studs, not fun when you have to do a pre-race engine swap...

    Andy

  7. #187
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    Thanks for the tip Andy. I really don't want to remove the sump again if I can avoid it. I've done this job before with the engine in the car, and although doable, it's a royal PITA, particularly with the early sumps. For the later versions, Raceline introduced some design changes that made it far easier to use a prybar to break the seal of an installed sump. On the early ones like mine, there are very few places to get purchase, making it very difficult. Even with the engine on the stand I struggled to break the seal last Fall. With it in the car and only an inch or so forward of the bell housing, the amount of swearing required goes up considerably. Fingers crossed this is a very minor, livable drip.

    -John
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  8. #188
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    N. California
    Posts
    119

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    John,
    Who said anything about removing the sump?!

    I've used this to seal stuff up externally and it works as long as the surfaces are prepped as I stated. It wicks in and then cures very quickly with the Primer. It may do the trick for your issue without the major pain of pulling the sump.

    Andy

  9. #189
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Seattle-ish
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    I wrongly assumed this was a liquid gasket that worked particularly well, not a wicking thread locker. Interesting idea and worth exploring more.

    Thanks,
    John
    '95 Westfield SEiW w/2.0L Duratec
    '68 Lotus Elan FHC
    '91 Miata w/Flyin Miata suspension & brakes
    '95 Porsche 993 C2
    '86 Porsche 944 turbo (neglected project car)
    Throttle Steer

  10. #190
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    283

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    John,

    I have been using a grey AC Delco RTV with no issues on surfaces such as the sump. Mine is an early Raceline wet sump and it sealed up perfectly on initial installation. When I rebuilt the T-9, I used Loctite 515. It seals well and allowed me to separate the various sections the numerous times necessary. Once it has set up (it doesn't actually cure according to the literature), it seals very well. It's also a cool purple color. Need forget the artistic component. That's what keeps us going some days.

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