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Thread: installing new harnesses

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Southeastern Pa.
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    2,778

    Default installing new harnesses

    I now see why they say that if you are having one knee replaced, do them both at the same time, because you won't want to do the second one after having done the first.

    My harnesses expired on both of my Caterhams last year. I had the ones in the Orange car replaced when it went in for the preseason service.

    The yellow car is waiting for a starter rebuild so I decided to replace the harnesses this morning. Shoulder harnesses are a breeze obviously, then i started on the lap belts and crotch belts.

    I have the stock cloth seats in the Yellow car and after removing the bottom cushion, it's apparent that the seat tracks and back need to come out to get at the lap belts bolts. Sounds simple but on my car the bolts holding the seat tracks down, would spin when I tried to undo the nyloc nuts from underneath the car.

    I needed to wedge a screwdriver between the track and bolt to keep them from spinning. Bad news was that my arms aren't long enough to hold the screwdriver and wrench at the same time. And that was just for the front bolts. The rear track bolts need to have the seat back pushed forward and then again reach down with the screwdriver. Physically impossible to do.

    Seat and tracks had to come out because the seat track on the driver's left side belt is too close to allow the bolt to be removed or reinserted. For the sake of a half inch they could have eliminated all that. Damn English!!!

    So i called a neighbor over and after a few curses, the seat came out and belts in, then seat back in.

    Passenger seat will have to wait until all my cuts and bruises heal. ( I left the car on the lift which limited my space between the car and the lift when trying to get to the nuts under the car. And the side exhaust is on the drivers side which limited me even more.)

    Thanks for letting me vent. Anyone have an easier solution to spinning bolt issue?

    Tom


    Mangia bene, Ridi spesso, Ama molto, Guidare veloce

    2000 Caterham Superlight #123
    1.8L VHPD Rover K Series
    2009 Caterham SV
    2.3L Cosworth Duratec

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    4,260

    Default

    I adapted long breaker bar with a swivel head mounting a very tall socket and a long handle torque wrench at the other end to extend my arms last time i did it. I left copious amounts of skin and blood under the car - those U shaped seat track rails are quite vicious. I then learned that it was better to pay someone else to do it.

    Another idea, instead of a screwdriver, could you wedge vice grips and some solid material against the nut and stop the spinning.

    Or do you have a chat with a nut called Steve?
    Mike
    2010 Caterham CSR with Cosworth 2.3 Duratec
    2018 Caterham 420R with 2L Duratec 210hp at Donington UK
    1975 BMW CSL Group 4 (restoration - engine and dry sump install time)
    1977 Holden Torana "A9X" (awaiting restoration)
    1985 Holden Commodore Group A (restoration - engine rebuild)
    1982 Ferrari 400i (will repaint to original color in 2020)
    1965 Ford Mustang Fastback "Holman Moody"
    1992 Ford Escort RS Cosworth WRC (fettling after long period of storage)
    1990 Range Rover 2 door Classic

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Ft Lauderdale
    Posts
    74

    Default

    I tried this (and it worked)
    Go to the depot a buy these pan head bolts, the heads should be bigger than the seat tracks





    File down two sides of the bolt (I used a dremel to cut them) so it drops into the track now the bold will not spin
    Secure them with a dab of JB weld (to stop them pushing up when attach the nuts from the underside)
    Or weld a couple of nuts to the track and bolt up from the underside
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    Life Can Be Cruel

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    The Frozen Northeast
    Posts
    466

    Default

    I feel your pain: last year my car was squeaking. I was told "just polish and anti-seize the bushings..." no prob I though: I assembled my car shouldn't be too bad... One winter later completely disassembling my car... it doesn't squeak any more

    If the rivnuts are spinning, can you tighten them? I've done this with a long bolt, washer and nut: thread the nut onto the bolt, then secure the bolt threads into the rivnut: hold the bolt stationary and tighten the nut to further compress the rivnut.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Arkansas and . . .
    Posts
    3,259

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yellowss7 View Post
    thanks for letting me vent . . . Spinning bolt issue?

    tom


    I get it.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    224

    Default

    I replaced my standard bolts with capheads last time the seats were out. Now using an Allen key makes this job much easier.
    1985 Caterham Super Seven

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    104

    Default

    My car was built by George Alderman (Mid-Atlantic Caterham) and he tack welded the bolts to the seat runners. It made if very easy to remove the seats (though I think one or more of the tacks is now broken).
    Jay

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