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Thread: Changing from keyed start to start button

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Los Angeles
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    178

    Default Changing from keyed start to start button

    The plan over the winter is to cut a new aluminum instrument panel and change over from a keyed ignition to a start button system (as well as cleaning up the wiring harness and removing a couple of unused switches). While I don't see this as particularly challenging, is there anything I should be aware of? I have a 40a start button, a guarded heavy duty toggle switch and a conventional cut-off switch on the way. I have lined up a local sheetmetal shop that will punch the instrument holes. Since there will be no key, I may also install a cell phone controlled immobilizer system.

    Since I converted to Brooklands screens, I no longer need the windshield heat or wiper switches. When I put on a flat bottomed Momo steering wheel, I found that it hid the directional and high beam indicator lights. This is an issue as I have a manual directional switch and an incredibly short memory. I would love to find toggle switches to replace the plastic rocker switches that came with the Birkin for the headlights and hazard lights but rewiring those circuits requires too many Tylenol. Any effective strategies are welcome.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Port Angeles, WA
    Posts
    239

    Default

    You've likely thought of it, but don't forget toggles for the "hidden" functions of the key switch such as fuel pump, ECU power, etc.

    It's something I have intended to do and not gotten around to it. I also intend to replace the stock square switches, and think the easiest route for that is to make a plinth that covers and stands just a bit proud of the dash surface. Minimal rewiring required. Put an annoying beeper in your turn signal circuit--or replace the switch with a momentary one.


    Randall

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    178

    Default

    When you take a look at replacing the rocker switches, let me know what you come up with. I wanted to swap them for toggle switches as I think they are pretty flimsy. It isn't a straightforward exchange. The way Birkin wired the lighting circuits seems unnecessarily convoluted. When I converted the tail light assemblies to LED bulbs, I had to add a couple of diodes to get things to function correctly. Were I to build another Birkin, I would simply order a wiring harness from Painless Performance or one of the digital systems.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    105

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    Papak, when you swap to led lights you have to swap the flasher relay. Some replays say led compatable. I used a Painless harness and still had to swap relay. The Painless setup is to expensive, I helped a friend out and he used a Kwik-wire or something like that, quality looked as good and it was 1/2 the price.

    Graham

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    178

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    I didn't have a problem with the relay. It was an LED capable relay. I experienced current bleed across the harness due to the lower resistance of the LEDs. The diode fix works perfectly.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    178

    Default

    If you want to replace the headlight switch with a toggle, use the Lucas 31788 (also shown as an SW42). This works as off/A on/AB on. This allows you to run the parking lights and headlights on the same with while retaining the high beam relay button. I have been speaking with Tom Carlin and we figure that I can use a simple on-off switch to control a five pin relay that will, in turn, control the power to either the hazard relay or the directional relay. The directionals will be the default and the hazards will be the switched circuit.

    I have spent a lot of time researching this and the only toggle switch I have found that will replace the headlight switch easily is the Lucas 31788. Everything else is usually a rocker or a pull switch. Ron Francis sells a toggle switch for a more directly wired hazard light system. It is a single throw/four pole switch. I will be using this as the on-off switch for ignition and other switched functions. If you are using a Typhoon ECU, you could wire the switched 12v supply to this switch but you would still need the un-switched 12v supply to run directly off the battery as the ECU needs power for about 5 seconds after shutdown to save the engine parameters to memory. The memory itself is non-volatile. While the fuel pump relay is powered via a relay from the ECU, it runs off the switched 12v supply. Consequently, the pumps lose power when the ECU is turned off.

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