Dry Sump Siphoning Issue - Fixed

[xcarguy]

It has been a few years since my "instrumentation" days. But a check valve in a flow line is effectively an orifice plate and will reduce pressure "down side" for only a short distance. (you can look up orifice plate and get the exact formula). and check valves are commonly used in applications that require limited flow reduction. My only reservation would be the quality of the valve and design of the mechanism. Wouldn't be a buying any offshore junk. I would not hesitate to use one but as for anything in the lube system it would be of the highest quality. this is one of my favorite sites to read because of the friendly, helpful nature, and amazing volume of knowledge here.
john

Check vale’s are designed to allow flow of a liquid in one direction, thus preventing reverse flow (flow in the opposite direction), not reduced flow. The check vale installed on my car utilizes a flapper-type valve which has a reverse flow rating of 150psi (flapper valve can prevent reverse flow up to 150psi of back pressure) and requires .5psi of back pressure to seal (shut) the flapper valve and prevent reverse flow. We could go down a rabbit hole discussing orifice plates (also known as restriction plates or restrictor orifices/RO) and check valves, but we’re getting into industrial applications such as oil and gas industry, etc.. Simply put, ‘plates’ are used for restricting/reducing psi on the downstream side only and cannot prevent reverse flow. Check valves, in their simplest form, allow flow with no reduction in psi while preventing reverse flow.

The check valve I’m using: https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/251008ERL

[seschm1234]

Hi Jefferson
I have the same issues with the dry sump installed on my WCM. Right now its located in the passenger seat footwell making the passenger seat almost useless. I'm 5'8" and I can't get in without me knees hitting the dash. I think your plan with the check valve is brilliant. I was concerned that the pressure head might overcome the 2psi cracking pressure but a few simple rho*g*h calculations and I've convinced myself that 2 psi should be fine. Just wanting to confirm...you didn't blow up your engine yet. :-) Additionally, did you (or anyone else) ever install a remote filter/primer like this to reduce startup wear?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Peter...aign=CSEGOOGLE

Thanks

Paul

[Bent Wrench]

Harley has the same issues with their dry sump setups, the tank on many models is higher than the oil pump.
They added a check valve on the pump output to hold back unforced flow.