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Thread: Santa Came early - R400 Roller Barrel Conversion!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Stamford, Connecticut
    Posts
    128

    Default Santa Came early - R400 Roller Barrel Conversion!

    Santa was very nice this year. He managed to drop a set of Caterham / Titan Roller Barrel intakes (kit) and a Cat Bypass on his way back from the UK and a bit in advance. Lots of sound, a bit more HP (10,.. 20HP according to some?) and a few flames coming out of the exhaust.. just what my car needs.
    I can't wait to our next blat on the East Coast this spring. This will be a looooong winter.

    So now a few questions for the group:
    1/ Santa bought the kit from Caterham directly. Part of the arrangement is for Santa to send the ECU back to Caterham to be remapped. However, Santa understands the that Caterham ECUs are locked. So should Santa consider another ECU either from SBD or from another source to have more "fine tuning and remapping" flexibility going forward? Would it be worth it? If so, who would have a base map for the R400 2.0L duratec engine equipped with the Titan roller barrels?
    2/ Santa did not receive any "setup" information from Caterham yet. He could call and engage with them or ask... USA7s for tips and tricks! Has anyone already installed this set on their R400 2.0l Duratec engine? Do you know where I could find setup instructions?
    3/ Finally, Santa told me that i needed to cut my bonnet to install the air filter. Caterham sent a drawing for the cut out. ok.. but any tricks and tips on how to do this properly and not brutally damage the bonnet in the process?

    Thanks a ton for the help in advance!


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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Orange County
    Posts
    75

    Default

    Very nice! I have the same setup on my CSR260 engine swap. If you refer to my build thread, you can see how it was set up with a 6mm round rod for initial throttle opening balance and how I cut my hood as well. You'll also need to reset your tps sensor too after doing that. I taped the bonnet with masking tape, started small on the opening with a dremel and 3" cutoff wheel and worked my way until it was a perfect opening. Didn't take that long actually, maybe 1-2 hours.

    I would suggest getting an unlocked MBE 9A4 from SBD or Bruce Beachman which will come with a basic map according to your engine specs that will get you started.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Stamford, Connecticut
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Thanks Vstryker.
    I will definitively ping Bruce (which i have already) about the ECU and weight the pros and cons versus a stock Caterham ECU.

    As for the bonnet, did you use the dremel tool with a special wheel to cut through and followed the opening lines (if so, what type of wheel?) I was thinking of drilling first to create an opening as you suggested and then using an electric reciprocating hand saw with the right blade of course and to follow the lines of the template, and finish with fine hand filing. But perhaps it will be too heavy or bulky to do a good job and not friendly with the paint at the line. What do you think?

    As for the TPS, we will cross the bridge when we get there!
    thanks for your guidance.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    3,661

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SK400 View Post
    As for the bonnet, did you use the dremel tool with a special wheel to cut through....
    Chainsaw?


    ok I get the message...leaving now...
    Mike

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Orange County
    Posts
    75

    Default

    I used a dremel with an aluminum oxide cutting wheel. It cuts the bonnet like a hot knife through butter. I would not use an electic reciprocating saw as it can get caught while cutting and can mess up the hood. The dremel with the cutting wheel does not get caught and can easily be maneuvered to the contours, just go nice and slow. Another tip is to cut to a depth of about 1/8-1/4" or just enough to go through. Finish off the edges with a file, touch up paint on the edges, and cover with rubber edging

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Stamford, Connecticut
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Has anyone tried a hand nibbler or air nibbler to cut the bonnet opening? how would this compare to other techniques?
    thanks!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gresham, Oregon
    Posts
    116

    Default

    I have used an oscillating cutting tool with a half round and narrow straight metal cutting blade to cut sheet metal and fiberglass, it is very easy to hold a steady line and clean up is just with a half round and flat mill file. They now have tungsten blades of which I have not tried yet.
    Mike
    2005 WCM Ultralite S2K

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    South Lyon Michigan
    Posts
    183

    Default Hood opening

    I opened up a pear shaped hole in my hood using an air nibber after it was painted. I layed out the lines on masking tape, and cut about an 1/8" inboard. The final hole size was opened with a fine grit sanding roll and die grinder, then deburred with a file. The only problem using the air nibber was it would dig into the tape, if you where not flat to the surface. Dave W

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    178

    Default

    A stock bonnet with the cut-out is actually hem-rolled. About 1/8" is folded over and rolled flat. It makes a nice contoured edge, and puts back some rigidity.

    Van - how flexible did the bonnet get after you made the cut-out?

    -Bruce
    Beachman Racing
    Authorized Caterham Cars dealer

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Orange County
    Posts
    75

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBe View Post
    A stock bonnet with the cut-out is actually hem-rolled. About 1/8" is folded over and rolled flat. It makes a nice contoured edge, and puts back some rigidity.

    Van - how flexible did the bonnet get after you made the cut-out?

    -Bruce

    I would say that the bonnet did lose some of its rigidity after cutting the hole in it... but my guess would be maybe 15-20% less rigid. Because of this, it made it a little easier to mount the bonnet since now it has to bend slightly over the large foam filter before it goes on.

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