Trailer Questions... [Archive]

scannon

03-29-2007, 08:21 AM

Al,

I've been looking at trailers recently. I need one that is light, has brakes and will also accomodate my 13' Miata that sits much lower than the Caterham.

Because of the Miata, a tilt bed seems to be the only way to go. I have narrowed it down to two so far, both from H&H. Because of cost and availability, I will likely get the H&H Solid Side (SS) single axle tilt bed in 8.5' x 14'. It weighs about 1,500 lb.

http://www.hhtrailer.com/05SSTiltbedUtilityTrailer.asp

It will run a little over $1,600 after the brakes are added.

Note that most trailer sizes are overall width and bed length, thus this 8.5' wide trailer has an 82" bed width. Because of the solid sides I need the widest bed so I can both open the door with the Miata on the trailer and have room to make tiedown connections.

I would prefer the H&H MXA Speedloader which is an aluminum tiltbed with tandem axles but cost and length (minimum 18') make it impractical for me. It actually weighs less than the steel 14' SSA but costs about $3,800.

http://www.hhtrailer.com/06MXSpeedLoader.asp

If you can live with a tailgate ramp, there is an aluminum version of the SS in 8.5 x 14 that costs around $2,600 and weighs about 1,100 lb without brakes.

http://www.hhtrailer.com/06Aluminum.asp

I keep hoping a good used trailer will become available and have looked at and rejected a number of them.

Skip

solder_guy

03-29-2007, 08:32 AM

umm .. I was thinking of adding a hitch to the back of my Rotus so I could pull a trailer! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif

Rob M

stevet

03-29-2007, 08:52 AM

Al,

I remember Aluma Trailers being talked about a while back - no personal experience, but all aluminum and relatively light weight...

see here http://www.alumaklm.com/

Steve.

andrew7

03-29-2007, 09:47 AM

Al,

Mine is a small cutom built. A 6'x10' box with removable sides. The wheels are outside the box and my wide 7 fits perfectly. Pa. law has #3000gvw no brakes or inspection and my #1000 trailer means I can haul a ton. It was loaded and pulled by a little 4cyl 4sp Ranger truck. 12' is a good lenght but 8.5' is very WIDE. I think a 7'-8' by 12-14 trailier is a good size. If you don't need a 8.5'x18' double axle w/brakes to haul a car,tools,tires its less hassel. I also use 6' long ramps because the fold up tailgate ramps offer a lot of wind resistance. Manuverability and storage should also be consideration.

It's possible to load Orange on a small trailer and back it into a small garage for winter storage, then come summer leave the trailer out for easy access and use. <edited><editID>andrew7</editID><editDate>2007-03-29 10:54:58</editDate></edited>

Keith

03-30-2007, 07:43 AM

I think my trailer is 6x12'. It was originally built for a sand rail and loads a Seven amazingly quickly and easily. We've used it for Miatas as well although I'd call that a full load. It cost me about $600 used. Takes a bit of maintenance though - I've put on tires, reinforced the base, welded up and reinforced some problem areas, replaced a hub and rewired it. Still, I have under $1000 in the thing and it did 5000 miles in March.

http://www.cheapsportscar.net/images/Img_5762.jpg

Al Navarro

03-30-2007, 07:54 AM

Thanks all...the Alumas are nice as are the Featherlites that are sold near me. Trying to keep costs down though...those are both around $4K new.   Should have bought Lance's trailer last year when I had the chance!

Keep in mind my Honda Pilot only has a 4500 tow rating, so the aluminum makes a difference.

Andrew7...would love to see a pix of your trailer.

locostv8

03-30-2007, 10:28 AM

My trailer is an old boat trailer with a 6.5x10 flatbed made of catwalk added. It has been very handy since the the entire bed is a tie down point. It will probably be a bit short for the 7 which will be taken care of by angle pockets for the tires being added. Total cost was $300.

Al Navarro

03-30-2007, 10:37 AM

Another question...single axle vs. double...I know the Se7en isn't heavy, but isn't the double inherently more stable?

And what is everyone's opinion on brakes vs. no brakes? Since I think I'm splitting the cost with my father-in-law, I'm going to err on the side of safety...

Keith

03-30-2007, 11:37 AM

Sounds as if you've already made up your mind then http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/smile5.gif

I've never had any instability concerns, nor has the lack of brakes on my trailer been a problem. The plus to the single axle is that the trailer is lighter, and since there aren't any brakes I don't have to worry about having a controller on the tow vehicle.

Al Navarro

03-30-2007, 11:51 AM

Thanks Keith...I could be swayed in the direction of single/no brakes. Just need more posts like yours!

locostv8

03-30-2007, 11:53 AM

A plus with single axle is that the toll is less than 2 axle, sometimes quite a bit. The minis is that if a tire blows you have a bit more of a problem.

Al Navarro

03-30-2007, 11:55 AM

And then I'll get another POV that puts me back in the double axle/surge brake category! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif

Keith

03-30-2007, 12:09 PM

Keep in mind that a light trailer with a Seven on it weighs less than our race trailer - a 20' enclosed Pace with brakes and two axles - does empty. I don't claim to be a towing expert, but I've put a lot more mileage on my trailer than I ever expected (I'd guess at least 12,000 miles) and it's never given me a tense moment.

scannon

03-30-2007, 01:12 PM

I just put in an order for an H&H 18' MX Speedloader in aluminum. I waffled back and forth between that and their steel single axle 8.5 x 14 tilt bed. The aluminum MX is also a tilt bed and actually weighs within a few pounds of the shorter single axle trailer (1,400 lb).

I was unable to find a ramp type trailer that my Miata could use, it has 2 3/4" clearance under the chassis bracing with more front overhang than the Caterham. The only trailer I have been able to get it on had to be disconnected from the tow car and allowed to lift on the front from the weight of the car.

Since I will be hauling the Miata as well as the Cat I wanted brakes. I did have one close call with the borrowed single axle trailer with no brakes on a long down hill. Made a believer out of me.

I didn't really need an 18' trailer but that is the shortest they make it in the aluminum version. It will give me room for a tire rack and tool box up front.

Skip

andrew7

03-30-2007, 03:52 PM

Hi Al,

Sorry no pics, but Kieth has "The Trailer". Mine is very similiar, 2' shorter and no tire bar, plus Dad added truck air bags they have 40,000lb cap. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/rofl.gif Single axle is the way to go for you and what Keith said about the Miata being max load is correct for a single axle. The Pilot or any similiar SUV in the future will have about the same towing capacity and will have the brakes to stop it. If you tow alot of miles over a 3000lb limit go duals w/brakes. The only instability you would see is if you have alot of weight behind the axle which lightens the hitch weight and "wags" the tow vehical. A rule of thumb is the hitch weight is %10-%15 of total weight. The moneys yours but a steel trailer will do fine, less expense and can easily be modified for future changes. Mig or A/O weld on brackets or boxes then later if you choose cut them off. An aluminum trailer is harder to modify. For small trailers like ours aluminum to me won't save much weight and you probably couldn't tell the difference driving down the road. A 8.5'x20' fully enclosed, yes. Most here would love the forementioned given to them but factor in cost, storage, weight, and manuvering. You will find smaller and cheaper is better, "Add Lightness". Be careful of "two-footitis", I don't want to see you stuck on the Dragon with a 40' box http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif .

bsimon

03-30-2007, 07:39 PM

Having had some bad experiences with single axle trailers, I opted for tandem axles. Single axles and non-equalized tandem axles (torsion bar type) are wishy-washy to say the least, especially when negotiating drain pans, pot holes, and speed bumps. Just too damn bouncy.

My current trailer is lightweight all steel construction with tandem equalized axles and 13" wheels. The frame structures are folded sheet steel and rectangular structural tubing. The deck is 72" X 120" and only 10" off the ground, a little small, but adequate for a Seven. 8' aluminium ATV ramps load the car nicely, but I do have to put a couple of turns into the landing gear to drop the back low enough to clear the bell housing. The trailer can remain hitched during this maneuver.

Weight is around 1200 lbs. In tight turns the trailer wheels apex about 6" inside the rear wheels of the Tahoe. It tows like a dream even at three digit speeds. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/eek6.gif You have to constantly remind yourself that you are towing something as there isn't even the slightest influence transmitted to the tow vehicle. Well, OK maybe acceleration suffers a bit.http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/rolleyes5.gif

I disabled the original surge brakes. I could never manage to get the surge brake back-up feature to work properly. I had to get out and pin the coupler manually to back up. Newer model surge brake couplers have much better back-up functions from what I understand.

Unfortunately, I can't remember the make of the trailer. I do recall that it was built by a commercial mass producer of boat trailers.

I picked it up at a farm sale for $300. A few hundred dollars in parts and a shake-n-shine BRG paint job made it into a Farmer John Lotus. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif

andrew7

03-31-2007, 10:28 AM

It tows like a dream even at three digit speeds.

Having had some bad experiences with single axle trailers

I hope you live and tow in Kalifornia and not anywhere near me!

I've slid into intersections at 30mph and that was with a small 24' 3500lb travel trailer with dual axles and brakes. Towing isn't to be taken lightly but it is safe provided you drive it like a big truck and not like a Corvette.

yellowss7

03-31-2007, 10:56 AM

Andrew7 posted " Towing isn't to be taken lightly"

You got that right! I totaled my wife's Durango towing my 7 in an 18 ft enclosed Pace trailer. The trailer started swaying, then it got really bad and caused me to bounce off the left guardrail (from the right lane) and then back to end up on and almost over the right guardrail. Trailer jacknifed. Force was so great it straightend out the metal tie down strap hooks. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/eek6.gif

7 slid forward about 2 feet, with only a slight ding to the left rear wing when it hit the inside fender well of the trailer.

This all happend on the NE extention of the PA Turnpike and I was only doing 55 when it started. Someone told me I should have squeezed the trailer brake controller and accelarated. Yeah, that's not as easy as it sounds.

Wife won't let me tow anymore.    Stay safe Tom<edited><editID>yellowss7</editID><editDate>2007-03-31 11:57:18</editDate></edited>

andrew7

03-31-2007, 04:12 PM

I glad to hear you, your wife and the seven weren't hurt.

Yes, the controller and gas pedal trick would have worked and I've used them myself.

Larger trailers require vehicals with longer wheelbases. The trailer wags you. Short wheelbase suvs like Broncos, Jeeps, and Durangos have tougher times with swaying but if you keep the trailer short and put more weight on the hitch you'll be O.K.

My 30' travel trailer will move my van around at 55 if I'm not loaded correctly and wind gust will push it around also. In the last 10 years, the couple of close calls I've had were related to stopping same as big riggs. You find out you don't stop like a car but gradually slow down and eventually stop.

bsimon

03-31-2007, 08:42 PM

"Towing isn't to be taken lightly"

Well said.

Sorry,

I wasn't implying that one should haul at 3 digit speeds. I was trying to make the point that trailer dynamics need to be carefully calculated to provide for vehicular stability. I guess better wording would have been appropriate.

Single axle trailers are inherently unstable and require extra thought. Tongue weight becomes critical. Even with a perfectly tuned single axle towing setup, a drag axle blowout at speed can eat your rig post-haste. Many times there will be nothing you can do about it. Tandems don't react as violently in similar situations.

Personally I won't have a single axle trailer anymore and I won't drive trucks equipped with super single tires either.(although DOT deems SS's to be perfectly safe)

Just my $.02 worth...

Now, back to our regular programming...

Keith

03-31-2007, 09:05 PM

That's why I use fresh trailer-specific tires. Tongue weight can be fine-tuned by the position of the car on the trailer, too.

It's all about choosing the best tool for the job, I suppose. A light single axle trailer is easier to tow with a smaller vehicle than a heavier dual axle setup, and at approximately 2000 lbs all up it's well within a safe range for a single 3500 lb axle and good tires. My primary tow vehicle is a Jeep Grand Cherokee with all the tow options and it's happy with my Seven trailer. It would not like our big dual axle enclosed race trailer at all.

bsimon

03-31-2007, 09:17 PM

"trailer-specific tires"

V-important. Trailer tires have sidewall design considerations for safely transmitting weight to the road, same as truck tires. Car tires are simply not up to the task.

I might add that trailer wheel balancing is often overlooked as well. Trailers need wheel balancing just like a car.

locostv8

04-01-2007, 10:03 PM

Boxologist

04-02-2007, 06:25 AM

>thread on another forum with links and insight. (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1100054)

Keith

04-02-2007, 06:45 AM

FWIW I have an 04 GC Overland with trailer package. Towing an about 3500 lb trailer with no trailer brakes from Miami FL to Blacksburg VA cooked and warped the front rotors and I'm very easy on the brakes.

Towing over the Colorado passes with my 2000-2500 lb setup hasn't caused any problems for me, but I always make sure to use engine braking when descending a pass.

R1 Seven

04-02-2007, 06:51 AM

I have a very good friend who races a vintage Saab that weights about 1700lbs. He tows it behind his Saab Aero with a custom built single axle trailer alot. It has no brakes, and he has no issues whatsoever with that setup. Just one more data point...

Al Navarro

04-02-2007, 07:19 AM

AAAGGGHHHH...too much information, can't process! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/confused5.gif

I actually liked that one trailer in the link Boxologist provided...the "Serpent Express"...but it's as much as any full on aluminum one I could buy locally. Plus I bet that tarp top would take a BEATING. <edited><editID>Al Navarro</editID><editDate>2007-04-02 08:23:13</editDate></edited>

locostv8

04-02-2007, 07:46 AM

The 99 to 04 GC has a bad history of warped front rotors. The next time mine cooks it will probably get Cobra PBRs.

Keith

04-02-2007, 10:47 AM

Yeah, my 2000 GC already cooked a set in 26,000 miles of driving around town, before it had ever seen a trailer. Didn't realize it was endemic to the breed, I thought it was just my girlfriend's driving http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/smile5.gif

locostv8

04-02-2007, 04:10 PM

NOPE. I have some thoughts on a fix.

blami

04-02-2007, 04:16 PM

Hi Al,

I just thought about it and I am pretty sure that I've towed my Caterham around 60,000 miles in the 13 years that I've had it (Pittsburgh to Lime Rock, VIR, Road Atlanta, Mid Ohio, Watkins Glen, Nelson Ledges, GingerMan, BeaveRun--usually 10 to 12 events/schools per year).

I've had an open alum trailer (Trailex), with dual axles and surge brakes which I was able to pull with my company cars (Chevy Lumnia with the smallest 6 cyl engine). Total weight of Seven and trailer: 2000 lbs.

I now have an enclosed trailer (Classic Trailer) with a 14 ft box and I tow this with my GMC Envoy (6 cyl. engine). This trailer also has dual axles and electric brakes. This was made by Classic as an enclosed motorcycle trailer and I had them modify it to my specs.

Some general thoughts: the small, light open trailer is very easy to tow. It handles well and it was easy to back up. You could tow with the family sedan--the "tail would not wag the dog". The trailer was easy for me to move around by hand, in the paddock or at home. Problems: it's an open trailer and at least once a year I would be at some track with the following weather forecast: Thunderstorms, high winds and possibly damaging hail"

Enclosed trailer: You have shelter and security. You have cabinets, an electric winch, a lawn chair, MORE STUFF. And more weight to pull. With a 14 foot trailer,

I do not have a problem with "the tail waging the dog", even though my GMC Envoy is considered to be a mid-size SUV. Get a good hitch, one that allows you to put a little more tongue weight on it via torsion bars.

Most importantly, whatever you do, break down and spend the money to buy a trailer that will do what you require of it, in a safe manner.

Guys will spend thousands of dollars on Wheels/Tires and a few carbon fiber parts for their car and then they don't want to spend more than $1500 on a trailer---Get dual axles, get brakes on all 4 wheels, trailer tires only, and understand the difference between the various hitch models out there and get the right hitch for the job.

Pay attention to the height of the hitch ball--if you don't know why, get proper advice from a good trailer dealer.

Call me if you want to discuss any of this stuff in detail.

Bart, 412 341 9565

scannon

04-02-2007, 04:38 PM

the "Serpent Express"...but it's as much as any full on aluminum one I could buy locally. Plus I bet that tarp top would take a BEATING.

I talked with the owner of the Serpent Express company today. They don't make the trailers, just the 'tent' part. They have several manufacturers they purchase the base trailers from and then build and install the tent. I like their concept.

They are willing to make one for an existing trailer if the trailer is configured correctly - no stake pockets, removable fenders and a few other items.

The company is based in Utah and I am going there in May anyway and will have him look at it and give me an estimate for adding the tent. Roughly about $1,900 plus any options you select.

I sent him out on the web to have a look at the H&H aluminum trailer I am buying and he seemed to like it better than those they are already using. Problem is, their standard trailers are 12, 14 and 16 feet in length and the shortest H&H speedloader is 18'.

We'll see how it pans out. If I decide to get one, I will have it on the trailer for the 7/7/7 event.

Skip

Al Navarro

04-03-2007, 06:44 AM

Bart-I'm sure I'll end up ponying up for some aluminum flatbed jobby when all is said and done. I guess a trip to my local trailer emporium is in order. Perhaps in a few weeks when I'm done with Easter and my last Dragon recon.

BTW, are you sure we can't convince you to bring Pepper down in July? There's at least one other "track only" Seven coming.   http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif

blami

04-03-2007, 07:24 AM

Hi Al,

I'd love to be part of 7/7/7 but I will be at Mid-Ohio Racetrack on 7/4 & 5 making a bunch of Porsches look very slow.

It's a dirty job but somebody has to do it.

Bart

powderbrake

04-03-2007, 07:55 AM

I agree with blami, the enclosed trailer is a real advantage to getting there and back and staying dry.

I also agree that dual wheels, electric brakes and a weight transfer hitch are important. You may need a larger SUV to pull a larger trailer.

I have a Haulmark Kodiak 7 X 14 enclosed trailer with a ramp rear door. It has a side door (helps to tie down the car, and to reach stored items in front)and lots of room to haul tools and supplies. It cost me $4300,and I bought it new from the factory. Lots of these 7 x 14 "landscaper's" trailers with a drop down rear ramp are available on ebay. There is a ready market for it when you decide to sell it. Check the inside width.... on some trailers, the trailer wheels are partially into the cargo compartment. On mine, the trailer wheels are completely outside the cargo area, so I have the full width of the trailer inside. (72 1/2" which just fits my 68" wide car)

Because the drop down ramp creates too steep an angle for the botttom of the car to clear the edge of the trailer, you will need to invest in a pair of "Rhino Ramps" at Wal Mart for about $30. These work perfectly, and there is no need to raise the front of the trailer to get the car on and off. I cut the "stops" off the top of the rhino ramps, and they fit under the rear ramp of the trailer, forming a ramp extension for the car wheels.

The enclosed utility trailer is great for moving furniture and 4 x 8 sheets of plywood. In fact you will become the "guy with a trailer " to all your friends.

Here's a couple pics.

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070403_082624_DSC_0240_Small.JPG

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070403_082754_DSC_0241_Small.JPG

Here the rhino ramps tuck under the rear of the Ultralite

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070403_083520_DSC_0239_Small.JPG

Here , backing it out, I do not yet have the rhino ramps, and I am using wood blocks to lift the ramp to lower the angle into the trailer.

Also note the trailer is a lot taller than you need. I got one with an extra 6" of height, as it was the only one I could get on short notice, when I needed the trailer.

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070403_084404_DSCF2594_Small.JPG

Al Navarro

04-03-2007, 08:21 AM

Jerry-Maybe I should cancel my reservations at Tapoco and sleep in your trailer? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif

powderbrake

04-04-2007, 01:41 PM

Jerry-Maybe I should cancel my reservations at Tapoco and sleep in your trailer? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif

Al, you are welcome to share the space inside the trailer with my car. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif

Al Navarro

05-03-2007, 10:40 AM

REVISITED...

Dual axle vs. single?

Treated wood floor vs. aluminum or steel floor?

Do we need a beavertail and/or long ramps?

---

I got some prices in for a seven-sized trailer...but want people's opinions on the above choices before sharing the quotes.

Keep in mind that for my particular needs, I will be alternating use between the Seven and a Polaris Ranger (Golf Cart size ATV).

FWIW, the prices aren't as low as I'd hoped. Makes getting a simple utility trailer look like a very good option.

Al Navarro

05-03-2007, 10:41 AM

11Budlite

05-04-2007, 02:13 AM

At least for me, I'm looking at a light weight, single axle trailer with brakes. If I end up getting a dual axle, or enclosed trailer, then I probably would have to go with a bigger SUV or pick-up as a daily driver, and I REALLY don't want to do that. But if I could convince my wife to trade in her Mini Cooper for a tow vehicle, I'd be all set!!

Bruce

Al Carbonio

05-04-2007, 07:44 AM

This is all you need:

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/765962667_trailer1.jpg

Al Navarro

05-07-2007, 11:43 AM

Trailer Ramp length.

Given an average height of the trailer's bed, how long a ramp do you need for a Seven (I have a Caterham Superlight with 15" wheels).

Would 4 feet do it?

Would 5?

Or do I need 6 footers?

---

Because the front overhang of our cars is pretty short, I am hoping I can make do with the shortest ramps possible.

slngsht

05-07-2007, 11:52 AM

Al, I don't know the answer, but if you get a dovetail trailer, it'll be easier to load.

Al Navarro

05-07-2007, 12:02 PM

There are a few options I'm considering, but need to nail down a few points first. If we go with a custom-built one like Michael D's, we'll have one of those slanted tail parts. However, there are a few good (more affordable) non-custom options that don't have this feature...hence my question on the ramps.

locost7018

05-07-2007, 06:43 PM

I use 6 footers. My trailer is 20" high to the deck, so it is a little higher than most, Russ

Al Navarro

05-08-2007, 07:53 AM

Can someone tell me if a 5 foot ramp will work with a 19" bed?

Keith

05-08-2007, 07:58 AM

Trailer Ramp length.

Given an average height of the trailer's bed, how long a ramp do you need for a Seven (I have a Caterham Superlight with 15" wheels).

The cars don't have any trouble with approach or departure angles thanks to little or no overhang, but they have a problem with breakover angle. In other words, if there's a sharp angle between your ramps and your deck you might ground out.

The actual length of ramp needed is going to depend on the height of your trailer, the angle of the deck and your own car's clearance. The length of the bed is irrelevant. You can help a little bit by getting ramps with a curve in them, or by raising the bottom edge of the ramp a little with some wood. Longer ramps will also help. I've also cheated in the past by using the trailer jack to lift the front of the trailer up and tilt the whole thing - keep it attached to the tow vehicle though. I guess you could also let some air out of the trailer tires :)

yellowss7

05-08-2007, 11:09 AM

If you can order a beaver tail for the trailer bed it helps avoid the breakover problem Al referred to. I have an 18 ft Pace enclosed trailer with a 4-5 ft beavertail that allows the Caterham to easily load and unload. Tom

locost7018

05-08-2007, 11:30 AM

Another thing is to use curved ramps. The type used for lawn tractors. They are a little more $$ but it will solve any bottoming out problems. Russ

Al Carbonio

05-09-2007, 11:57 AM

This is all you need II:
http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/849885121_trailer3.jpg

Al Navarro

05-09-2007, 12:21 PM

NIce 13" wheels there, A.C.

Can you provide the specs of your trailer? Mostly, I'm interested in the bed height and ramp length. That will help me determine if the cheaper, non-brake equipped option is viable.

-Al

Keith

05-09-2007, 02:02 PM

One thing you could do to make it more "viable" would be to raise the trailer hitch on the car, making the bed of the trailer slope down. My trailer was built this way and with a pair of 6' ramps, there's no difference between the angle of the ramp and the angle of the bed.

Shown here, the nose is lifted a little so it would come off the ball. But you get the idea.

http://www.cheapsportscar.net/images/IMG_5262.jpg

http://www.cheapsportscar.net/images/Img_5762.jpg