Convertible tops

[andrew7]

In a few weeks I'm going to have a top made, another 7 rally precaution. I wanted to ask those that had tops for their sevens about the doors. At first I was only going to have a tonneau top made from the windshield to the roll bar but for the money and material a full top made more sense. I was going to have the doors zip in but that meant I could only use the doors with the top in place. How many of you have driven with just the doors in place like on a cool autumn day to keep the wind down or did you wear a leather jacket instead? If I wish to use the doors separately this means fabbing up brackets 'n bits and I'm not sure if its worth it. I noticed last fall that I had to dress like a motorcyclist. A windbreaker day meant a heavier coat in the 7 driving down a highway.



The car is fair weather only but if I'm caught out in a Microburst I want to be covered, besides those Dollar store umbrellas don't last long above 35mph. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif

[redbaron]

Andrew, I was faced with the same problem when I had my Rotus in Michigan and experienced here in Florida as well on those cool days we sometimes get in Jan. & Feb. What I did was to fabricate a backlite out of Lexan and attach it to the roll bar. With the side curtains installed the backlite pevents most of that annoying "blow back" on your neck and back of head. It doesn't eliminate the need of a jacket and head cover but it is sure provides a lot more enjoyable driving experience. The cockpit becomes a pod of sorts and turbulence is greatly reduced. See my posting of 05/08/06 0n page 8 for pictures of my set up.           Red Baron

[locost7018]

Check out this site. I am building a hood and doors like his. Russ

http://www.groovy42.freeserve.co.uk/

[slngsht]

Check out this site. I am building a hood and doors like his. Russ

http://www.groovy42.freeserve.co.uk/



linky no worky

[slngsht]

Andrew, I was faced with the same problem when I had my Rotus in Michigan and experienced here in Florida as well on those cool days we sometimes get in Jan. & Feb. What I did was to fabricate a backlite out of Lexan and attach it to the roll bar. With the side curtains installed the backlite pevents most of that annoying "blow back" on your neck and back of head. It doesn't eliminate the need of a jacket and head cover but it is sure provides a lot more enjoyable driving experience. The cockpit becomes a pod of sorts and turbulence is greatly reduced. See my posting of 05/08/06 0n page 8 for pictures of my set up.           Red Baron



>Link to thread (http://www.usa7s.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115)

[solder_guy]

Check out this site. I am building a hood and doors like his.

http://www.groovy42.freeserve.co.uk/



Russ:



Great site! I especially like what you did about the top. >Tonneau Top (http://www.groovy42.freeserve.co.uk/extras.htm)



Rob Mitchell

[blami]

Andrew,



I use the doors only all the time on my Caterham. I have found that using the doors creates a more comfortable driving environment and it reduces drag: with the doors in place my drag-limited-redline goes up by 200 RPM.



Since we're both in Pittsburgh (at least I'll be back in Pittsburgh after 3/15) feel free to contact me to take a look at my convertible top (which I no longer use because of my "tall" FIA rollbar), doors, and door brackets, if you would like.



Bart Lami

[Mike Rohaley]

My wife prefers the doors on for most of our driving no matter what the temperature. The abuse from the wind is brutal for some reason on the passenger side compared to the drivers side (I think the exhaust running down the driver side somehow directs the air differently which takes the sting out of driving with the doors off).

Bottom line is the doors make a big difference in comfort, I don't leave home without them.

[slomove]

Andrew,



I use the doors only all the time on my Caterham.

Bart Lami



Another example that everybody likes it in a different way...I tried the sidescreen "doors" for a few days when I got the car and found them annoying. Don't like the looks and it takes away from the open air experience.



Since I don't like the wind buffeting either I fabricated full Lexan half doors that move the turbulence area back and out of the face while allowing for good visibility.

http://home.earthlink.net/~slomove/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/mirrorscreenlr.jpg

Works pretty good for me.



Gert

[slngsht]

Gert, how did you heat the lexan to form it? Hot water?

[stevet]

Gert, love the half doors - an elegant solution.



Steve.



PS: if you're ever in Virginia, please come polish my car



http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif

[slomove]

Nope, hot water is far too cold for Lexan (would need 370F for thermoforming).



I used 40/1000 Lexan sheet that flexes into the shape of the metal frame. Now, if you ask me how I got the aluminum profile to follow the 3D sweep... that was a couple of hours with vise, mallet and some steel pipe.



I may re-do the half-doors sometimes as a real thermoform from 3/16 Lexan sheet on a wood pattern. The ones that I got begin to look beat up and ratty after 3 years of use.



Gert

[Al Navarro]

On longer drives/highway miles, I run the Caterham half doors (which are meant to be used with the aeroscreen, I think). It helps cut down on some buffeting and stone chips throwing. I have a Patagonia "Core Skin" soft shell jacket that I use for fall driving, layered with a rain shell if it gets too wet - even if the top (Jill Judd half hood) is up.

[andrew7]

Thanks to all and keep them coming, I haven't decided yet. Al,the half doors, there the ones that go from the shoulder height to the cowl, all black about 10" wide. I thinking of a combo. Using half doors and if I want zip a clear piece from the doors to the convertible top. I added small plexy motorcycle wind deflectors and the turbulance isn't bad during a general ride.

[JohnCh]

I used to frequently drive with the doors to control the buffeting, but prior to USA2005 I had some very large wind deflectors made locally to my design. They work great and have been tested at, um...rather high speeds http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/smile5.gif



I experimented quite a bit with size and shape before finalizing the pattern, and discovered that for maximum effectiveness they need to come down below the door sill. You can (barely) see them >here (http://home.comcast.net/~cobar/workbench8.jpg) and >here (http://home.comcast.net/~cobar/halfhood2.jpg) (sorry, I'm too lazy to resize the photos so I can post them here).



-John

[soareyes]

You can (barely) see them >here... (http://home.comcast.net/~cobar/workbench8.jpg)   -John





Wow, that is one neat, clean garage! What brand garage floor paint did you use? It looks great!<edited><editID>soareyes</editID><editDate>2007-02-20 16:35:00</editDate></edited>

[JohnCh]

It doesn't look like that right now. The work bench is covered in parts! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif I used the Rustoleum Epoxy kits from Home Depot. I painted it nearly 3-1/2 years ago and it has held up very well. The only negative is that the dirt and grime brought in by the daily drivers has stained it in parts. I live near Seattle, so there is a lot of wet gunk that I pull in almost every day and I think I have let it sit too long at times which has contributed to the staining. The picture shows the back half of the garage which doesn't suffer the same level of abuse.



-John

[Al Navarro]

My half doors, Caterham issue.



These are shown with a 36 inch T-square for size. They go from the scuttle to the boot cover, effectively squaring off the "door area" . I've included a few pix so you can see details of how they are curved to provide a touch more space for the cabin occupants.



My mechanic changed the front pop-snaps to twist locks because the doors kept popping off (they are slightly loaded/flexed when snapped in) at the leading edge.



EDIT: I forgot to note that the skinny piece points backwards.



http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070223_080258_door1.jpg



http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070223_080315_door2.jpg



http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070223_080331_door3.jpg



http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070223_080344_door4.jpg<edited><editID>Al Navarro</editID><editDate>2007-02-23 12:09:57</editDate></edited>

[soareyes]

This may be helpful to any Birkin owners. I bought the same Caterham half doors that Al has, and they fit my Birkin perfectly. They come without the snaps installed so you can place them where you want. They really cut down on the air blowing in from the side.

[yellowss7]

Al, if you get a chance, could you post a photo of where the doors attach to the car? I bought a set of the same doors, but never put them one. Thanks Tom

[Al Navarro]

Tom, I'll do that over the weekend and post Sunday or Monday. Note that I think the original door install was not perfect (don't worry, I still love you, Rex!) which lead to the leading edge snaps popping off spontaeously.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The little quarter turn fasteners have been the charm though, and I'd recommend them if you haven't put the poppers in yet.



That said, I would shoot for putting the poppers into the "corners" of the door first (maybe one extra in the middle of the curved trailing edge, then using those poppers to locate where you need to mount the studs on your car.-Al



P.S. I can't believe no one has commented on the air hockey table backdrop!<edited><editID>Al Navarro</editID><editDate>2007-02-23 12:08:42</editDate></edited>

[Boxologist]

Tom, I'll do that over the weekend and post Sunday or Monday. Note that I think the original door install was not perfect (don't worry, I still love you, Rex!) which lead to the leading edge snaps popping off spontaeously.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The little quarter turn fasteners have been the charm though, and I'd recommend them if you haven't put the poppers in yet.



That said, I would shoot for putting the poppers into the "corners" of the door first (maybe one extra in the middle of the curved trailing edge, then using those poppers to locate where you need to mount the studs on your car.-Al



P.S. I can't believe no one has commented on the air hockey table backdrop!



put up a close up picture of teh 1/4 turn fasteners when u get a chance.



are those the caterham doors or JJ's? i'm debating what to get next, i like the look that mimic the lower half of the full doors, but don't think i need the carbon fibre ones from Fluke.



PS. bring the table to 7-7-07! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/rofl.gif

[Al Navarro]

Roger that Jon - on the quarter turns. These are the Caterham issue. I think the JJ's are flat (no "forearm bump out") and probably softer. If money were not an object, I'd spring for the Fluke ones to match my fenders, along with the carbon bonnet from EasiClad (richard in france)!



If I could fit the table into the pilot along with my family our our stuff, it would be there.

[Al Navarro]

Apologies in advance for the sunflare in some of these pix.



PHOTO ONE: Door off, 4 mounting points visible (3 poppers & 1 Quarter-Turn Fastener...note, rear popper is one of those "one way" deals that only pops off when you lift the snap a certain way.



http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070224_111647_Dooroff.jpg





PHOTO TWO: Door on to show line of door.



http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070224_111733_Dooron.jpg





PHOTO THREE: Detail of Quarter Turn Fastener, Door off



http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070224_111912_QuarterDoorOff.jpg





PHOTO FOUR: Detail of Quarter Turn Fastener, Door on



http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070224_111954_QuarterDoorOn.jpg





PHOTO FIVE: Close up of Quarter Turn Fastener



http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070224_112026_QuarterTurn.jpg

[yellowss7]

Thanks for the Pics Al. I just hate drilling holes in my car.

[scannon]

Al,



Do you have to remove the door completely to get in and out or just the upper fasteners and let the door hang down? Can you install it while sitting in the car?



Thanks,



Skip

[Al Navarro]

Tom-That's why I pay someone else to do the drilling!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif



Skip-If the top is off, I can get in with the doors on, with the tried and true "hold on to the rollbar and step over the door on to the seat" technique. If the top is on, I generally leave either the front or rear snap connected (the front quarter-turn is more robust, but the rear allows the door to "swing" more) and just push the door out of the way. It is simple enough to pop the snaps in while I'm in the car...although the rear one is an awkward reach (perhaps that's why I keep it snapped on most of the time).