Over Heating of Radiator and Engine

[MHKflyer52]

Well here is my problem with my 7.
My car has developed an overheating problem the last two times I have had it out and taken it above 65mph (freeway speeds) for any period of time and I can not seem to find out what is wrong with it.
A little history about the car.
Rebuilt engine 3 yrs ago (MGB 1800cc) and have driven it a lot since then. Ok I know it is an MGB engine.
Oil pressure stays at 30lbs at idle once warm and maintains close to 60 lbs when running hard and 45 to 50 while running around.
Good even compression on all cylinders.
No evidence of water in the oil or oil in the water.
New radiator when building the car 3 yrs ago.
Have flushed the system every year as preventative maintance.
Auto-X numerous times no problems and lots of hard spirited driving in between.
Never over heated before the last Auto-X.
Car puked about a quart of coolant at the auto-x after the second run and I replenished the coolant after it cool down.
Temp prior to boil over was constant 185 degrees. Temp reached 220 degrees during the first run and cool down to normal after first run and did not boil over or at least over flow my overflow tank.
Second run temp climbed to 195 degrees after stat up and stayed their through the run but at the end of the run climbed to about 225 and then cooled down to just under 200 degrees with the car idling, this is when I noticed that my overflow tank was leaking coolant in the parking area.
Third run after starting the car temp climbed to 200 degrees and then pegged my gauge after the run and deposited a large quantity of coolant in my trailer.
Next day serviced radiator and let car sit at idle with no overheating and temp stable at about 200 degrees by my gauge in the dash without the fan being turned on.
Pulled thermostat and replaced with new one that is for 185 degrees, flushed system and checked for water in the oil (negative) and test drove around the neighbor hood with no problems, temp stayed at 185 degrees.
Next day I was going to drive it into the office and headed out watching for any sign of overheating, everything seemed good till I entered the freeway and got up to the speed of the traffic (about 75 mph) noticed the temp climbing through 200 degrees so I returned home and switched cars. Later that evening I drove the car around the neighbor hood with out any over heating (temp stayed at just over 185) and the coolant level looked to be correct after returning to the garage.
Today backed the 7 out of the garage and went for a nice little ride through town without any overheating (temp stayed at about 185 degrees) even in stop and go traffic in town.
Headed out of town to go cruse the hills and jumped onto the freeway for about two exits or about 3 miles at speed and the temp when up between 200 and 210 so I departed the highway and hit the side roads to see if it would cool down which it did at first (about 195) so I headed for home. About two blocks from the house the temp started to climb and by the time I was able to get into the drive and put a garden hose on the radiator face it was over flowing my spill tank (temp reached 220) again and finally started to cool back down while idling and the garden hose running on the front of the radiator.

Anyone have any ideas as to what is wrong before I pull the head to check for cracks.
:7frog:

[slngsht]

interesting... just starting out with simple things, have you made sure the water pump belt has proper tension?

is there a procedure for bleeding the air out of the system?

[MHKflyer52]

Hi Mazda,
Yes I have checked the fan belt and even bleed the system after replacing the thermostat and flushing of the system even replace the radiator cap with a new one.

[SkinnyG]

Have you checked for a leaking or blown headgasket? I would put money on this. Combustion gasses/temperature getting into the coolant at speed cannot be dissipated by ANY cooling system - yet the engine will run nice and cool at idle.

Pull the rad cap off with the engine idling. As it heats up and the thermostat opens, you may see a bazillion tiny bubbles frothing through the coolant - probably overflowing out the rad filler - the head gasket is your culprit.

Failing this, many shops have a dye they can use to test for the existence of combustion gasses in your coolant.

G

[11Budlite]

I've got a '64 MGB and I was thinking the same thing as SkinnyG...

Bruce :7drive:

[tnttim]

Failing this, many shops have a dye they can use to test for the existence of combustion gasses in your coolant.

G

They also have an adapter with a pressure gauge on it that they put on the radiator cap they put a few pounds on it and then let it sit.


One shade tree way you MAY be able to tell is to pull the spark plugs and look into the cylinders. The color of your sparkplug may be different than the others and all the carbon will be blown off the top of your piston. (it will cleanre thanthe others).
If it is a bad enough leak you may actually see water on the top of the piston if you let it sit after heating it up.

I did have 2.3L Ford that i messed the ignition timing up and it overheated alot till I figured it out, but it also kinda ran funny.

Tim

[southwind25]

Do a leak down test instead of a compression test?

And this is way obscure..but how old is the water pump?, meaning i have heard (urban myth?) that on occasion the pump impellor may come loose on the shaft then it sli[ps a bit under higher revs-hydraulic pressure.. especially if it is an aftermarket pump with the sheet metal pressed vanes.

Another trick some guys do on engines that live in higher revs, is they have a larger dia pump pully to slow down the pump a bit.

i had a 70's MGB some years back...with a constant overheating problem, but it turned out to be the funky MGB radiator.

[WestTexasS2K]

Southwind that was going to be my suggestion. I would check the water pump. I have seen impellers come completely off the shaft. If you can pull the pump and look at it.

[MHKflyer52]

Southwind that was going to be my suggestion. I would check the water pump. I have seen impellers come completely off the shaft. If you can pull the pump and look at it.

I ordered a new water pump last night and it should be at home when I get their this evening. I have also heard that the impeller on the MGB water pump can erode or even come off the shaft and still work under low RPM's but not at the higher rev's so that is the next step before pulling the head.

I have checked for the radiator with the cap off to see if I had bubbles in the coolant while the engine was running and did not see any. I also checked the plugs to see if their was any dis-color and found them all to be very close to the same goldern tan color.

Thanks for the ideas and I will post what I find tonight after I pull the water pump.

Note; Just sitting here thinking about when I rebuilt the engine I do not think I replaced the water pump but will have to check my records but I am perty sure I did not due to it looking in good shape at that time, boy I hope it is the cause and not a cracked head or blown head gasket or some unseen blockage in the coolent system.

[MHKflyer52]

Thanks for the ideas and I will post what I find tonight after I pull the water pump.



Well replaced the old water pump with a brand new water pump.
The old pump has a little more gap between the housing and the impeller but other than that they look the same.
http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OldAndNewWaterPump
Put the new pump in and and also replaced the themostat with a new one to be on the safe side (they are cheep and someone told me to try a 165 degree), filled the radiator and engine with coolant and insured that their was no air in the system. Started it up and let it warm up, it seemed to level out at about 190 degrees so I decided to go for a spin. Looks like the head needs to come off and be replaced as the temp stayed at about 190 to 195 around the neighbor hood but as soon as I was able to get up over 55mph the temp started to climb so I headed back to the garage. By the time I was able to get back to my garage the temp had climbed up to just over 220 degrees and was not showing any sign of cooling off. :mad: :banghead: :cuss:
I guess the head needs to come off and be replaced. :mad::banghead:

[slomove]

Sorry to hear that. But before you take radical steps you might want to measure the in and out temperatures of the engine for further clues. Since you probably don't have remote lab thermometers you could try 2 remote BBQ thermometers with the sensing tips taped to the coolant hoses (and insulated with some foam). Something is not right here (doh...) did you check if the radiator may be gummed up? Also just for fun you could completely remove the thermostat and see if that makes any difference.

Gert

[MHKflyer52]

Sorry to hear that. But before you take radical steps you might want to measure the in and out temperatures of the engine for further clues. Since you probably don't have remote lab thermometers you could try 2 remote BBQ thermometers with the sensing tips taped to the coolant hoses (and insulated with some foam). Something is not right here (doh...) did you check if the radiator may be gummed up? Also just for fun you could completely remove the thermostat and see if that makes any difference.

Gert

Hi Gert,

I have actualy removed the radiator and presure flushed it to make sure that it is not pluged or gumed up and I have also tried running the motor with out the thermostat and the only differance is it overheats about twice as fast.
One friend of mine that is into british car restoration in a big way (Wellwood Auto Restoration, Inc.) has sugested that I most likely have a crack in the head in one of the exhaust ports and as the engine heats up under higher RPM's and greater pressures then lets the exhaust due two things, one is that it can suck the coolant out of the water jacket and vaporize it so that it dose not show up in the short exhaust system that I have on my car. The other thing that he has said it could due is presurize the water jacket and cause the coolant to get superheated and not be able to cool down even with the radiator and the fan and the thermostat and water pump all working correctly. This is a good posability as my head has been ported and that makes the walls a lot thinner and prone to cracks and besides the head on my engine is 30 plus years old and I am the one who rebuilt it and did the porting back when I rebuilt the motor 3 years ago so I am thinking that is most likely the problem a crack in the head in one of the exhaust ports.
Thanks for the sugestion of useing some thermal cuple probes to check the inlet an outlet temps as that is about the only thing that I have not done and will due that tommorow as I due have a Fluke Meter and at least one thermal couple that I can tape to the inlet an outlet of the engines water jacket. I due know that I will also be replacing my hoses as I noticed that they were swelling a lot under the presures that they have been seeing even though they are holding for now they sure have been stressed by excesive heat and pressure.
I will post what I find as I progress with solving this problem.
Just have to get one of the other cars out if I want to go for a ride.
Again thanks for the sugestions as they always help in trouble shooting.

[lowflyer]

The fact that you said your hoses are swelling up due to pressure may be an indicator that you have too high a pressure radiator cap in place.

If the cap doesn't open, or opens at too high a pressure it can keep the water from pushing out and causing a slow down in water flow through the radiator.

You may also have air in the coolant system. On our Stalkers this is very common due to the height of the rad vs. the top of the thermostat housing. Try jacking the nose of the car up as far as you can, block off the radiator and run the car until it's up to around 225/230.

Let it cool down and see if it draws fluid back from the overflow tank. You may even see air bubbles in the tank after it runs for a while.

In addition to all the other things mentioned about cylinder heads and such, look at the simple things first. You mentioned that you rebuilt the engine, is there a possibility that when you reinstalled everything you may have turned the engine fan around on the water pump? Don't ask me how I know this, but this little "oops" will cause overheating at speed!

Good luck.

[lowflyer]

Oh yeh, don't forget to consider that your gauge is bad !!!!

Don't ask how I know that one either.

[MHKflyer52]

Oh yeh, don't forget to consider that your gauge is bad !!!!

Don't ask how I know that one either.

Hi Lowflyer,

Thanks for the tip on the pressure cap. I have actually replaced the old cap thinking that might be the a problem due to it being weakend from time and use. I have had the same result with both the new and the old caps, as for the fan my engine has none as it uses an electric one mounted on the radiator and I have checked it and it is working as it is suspost too. As for air in the system I actualy have though that might be a problem but have eliminated that early in the trouble shooting process.
Thanks for the input as it keeps me rethinking what I have tried and provides me with other ideas to try.
:7frog:

[slomove]

.........is there a possibility that when you reinstalled everything you may have turned the engine fan around on the water pump? Don't ask me how I know this, but this little "oops" will cause overheating at speed!......

Good point. Kind of unlikely since you built it yourself but with the old Ford Zetec ZX1 that I have many Seven installs route the serpentine belt the "wrong way" around the water pump pulley to keep the installation compact. That means you can not use the US Ford Contour water pump but need to get a Ford Escort or Fiesta pump from Europe for proper spin direction. But I have no idea if that could even happen with the MGB engine.

Gert

[MHKflyer52]

Good point. Kind of unlikely since you built it yourself but with the old Ford Zetec ZX1 that I have many Seven installs route the serpentine belt the "wrong way" around the water pump pulley to keep the installation compact. That means you can not use the US Ford Contour water pump but need to get a Ford Escort or Fiesta pump from Europe for proper spin direction. But I have no idea if that could even happen with the MGB engine.

Gert

Hi Gert,

Good point but with the MG engine the altenator and water pump are small so no relocation is necessary and the one belt drive only goes on one way and the altenator is used to keep tension on the belt.
Thanks for the thought though.
Everything at this point looks like a crack in the head so later today or tommorow it is going to come off and be inspected.
Now I just have to deside on a cross flow head or go with a stock head as they are about the same price for each and the cross flow head means changes, mainly new carbs and a new hood.
I am seriously considering looking at a V6 as I can get a low milage engine and trans for what a new head is going to cost at this point but for now it looks like the head is coming off and then I will know better as to what direction I will be going.
:7frog:

[scannon]

as for the fan my engine has none as it uses an electric one mounted on the radiator and I have checked it and it is working as it is suspost too.

Did you just watch to see if the fan came on or did you put your hand behind it and feel the air flowing in the correct direction? Some electric fans will run in reverse if you reverse the leads. BTDT, with similar symptoms to yours. Everything was fine until the engine got hot enough to turn on the fans.

Skip

[MHKflyer52]

Did you just watch to see if the fan came on or did you put your hand behind it and feel the air flowing in the correct direction? Some electric fans will run in reverse if you reverse the leads. BTDT, with similar symptoms to yours. Everything was fine until the engine got hot enough to turn on the fans.

Skip

Hi Skip,

First thing I checked after checking to see if the fan belt that drives the water pump was not missing.

Thanks for the input.
:7frog:

[slngsht]

I am seriously considering looking at a V6 as I can get a low milage engine and trans for what a new head is going to cost at this point but for now it looks like the head is coming off and then I will know better as to what direction I will be going.
:7frog:

V6 is too much engine for a seven :D

[lowflyer]

A V6 is too much engine for a 7????!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't tell that to anyone with a Stalker.

BTW, I just read a comment attributed to the late Mark Donahue about the Porsche 917/30. He is quoted as saying " when I can spin the rear tires in top gear at the end of the longest straightaway, I will have enough power".

[slngsht]

A V6 is too much engine for a 7????!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't tell that to anyone with a Stalker.

BTW, I just read a comment attributed to the late Mark Donahue about the Porsche 917/30. He is quoted as saying " when I can spin the rear tires in top gear at the end of the longest straightaway, I will have enough power".



:rofl: you know I was joking, right?

[going back to work on my V8 ;) ]

[MHKflyer52]

Well I recived the new solution to my overheating problem and will start with a photo of the new parts that will fix the problem.:7frog:

Here is a link to the photos if you are interested.

http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OverheatingProblem

I will update the link with new photos as I due the rebuild.

[locostv8]

For those reading a blown head gasket dosn't always dilute oil or show bubbles. The 327 in my Corvair couldn't be driven more than a couple of blocks without badly overheating no mud in sump or bubbles so I got a tester to test for exhaust in radiator, BAD head gasket.

[JohnK]

The people who make radiators for special applications (Griffin (1-800-722-3723) among others) have values / numbers as to how big a radiator an engine needs, based on power output, coolant volume, .... Possibly you're running at the edge of you're system's capacity and something minor has pushed things over the edge. I've found Griffin's tech help line to be staffed by friendly folk. In terms of procedures and approaches, before I look for anything wrong, I backpedal and double check that the basics are correct. My reference / checklist has been to read and understand the description in C. Smiths's Prepare to Win (see pg 123). I does sound as if something has come awry - unless maybe you've suddenly learned how to drive much more aggressively :-) .

[gjslutz]

Prior to doing anything else I would take it to a radiator or a shop and have them test for exhaust gas in the radiator, it is very low cost. At one point years ago I had one and when you would suck some air up through it I think it would turn yellow if there was exhaust gas in the radiator. If so head gasket time. As others said I think it is where to look. A Std. compression test should show, also as mentioned above reading the spark plugs can show. If it was me, I would gather all the info prior to pulling the head. It should point to what cyl. area to look at.

The "Bear" knew about real power.

[MHKflyer52]

Hi to all,

Thanks for all your suggestions.
I can say that I have checked and double checked every aspect (radiator, cylinder compression etc.) of what could be wrong before buying a new cyclinder head due to the cost and down time of my car.
Visual inspection of the center exhaust ports shows that the water jacket has cracked due to the porting job I did when I built the engine up 3 years ago. Sure had hoped that it had been a bag head gasket but I just don't have that kind of luck.

[eoindubh]

I have been having a similar problem with an MGB/GT. The engine is a fresh rebuild from a good shop. The radiator was rebuilt by the best shop in the area. The engine has a bit of cam, +20 pistons, a full balance job and brand new carbs. All hoses were replaced. I can drive it to work in the morning (5:30AM) without going over 180 F but when I drive home at about 6PM it is up to temp before I get to the freeway and over 200 F before I get home (7 miles total). In talking to the tech support people at Moss Moters, they suggested looking at the distributer. As the advance plate and springs wear the timing can advance radically over the original curve. They suggested checking the timing at idle with an advance timing light (one that has a dial that will allow you to dial back to zero and see haw many degrees advanced you are) at idle, 1000RPM, 2000RPM and 3000RPM. Also if using a vacume advance it can be tested by unpluging the hose from the carb and plugging the carb port. Next connect a hand vacume pump to the vacume advance host and gradually apply vacume to the specified spec for the distributor. Again use the advance timing lighi to see how many degrees of advance you are getting.

Also a hand held infrared thermometer is really handy (about $50 on so online) to chech temperatures. You can measure abive and below the theroostst to verify that it is opening at the correct temp. It can also check brake temp after a run and make sure that the turkey is at the correct temp! I have one on order myself.

[MHKflyer52]

Well I have updated the link with some new photos if your interested.

http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OverheatingProblem

[MHKflyer52]

Well I removed the cylinder head tonight and found some other problems besides the cracks in the head their are cracks in the # 2 and # 3 cylinder walls about a third of the way down the stroke of the pistons.
I am really bummed now.

Here is the updated link with photos.

http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OverheatingProblem

Looking for a new engine now I guess.

[11Budlite]

Sorry to hear about the cracked block Martin. :ack: Cracked heads are very common on the B-series motors, but I haven't heard of too many examples of cracked blocks. Used blocks are pretty easy to find in the northeast due to all the rusted-out bodies, but shipping would be the killer. Good luck in your search.

Bruce

PS: Any thoughts on going to a more modern engine like a Zetec?

[MHKflyer52]

Sorry to hear about the cracked block Martin. :ack: Cracked heads are very common on the B-series motors, but I haven't heard of too many examples of cracked blocks. Used blocks are pretty easy to find in the northeast due to all the rusted-out bodies, but shipping would be the killer. Good luck in your search.
Bruce
PS: Any thoughts on going to a more modern engine like a Zetec?


Well at the moment I am waying my options for an engine. If I put another B engine in means very little reworking of the car and a shorter turn-a-round and I actually know of a good motor in the local area, GM V6 (more horsepower) means modifications to the drive line and bodywork with lots of them avaiable at a reasonable price, Zetec means total reworking the engine bay and trans / driveline to get it into the car plus the expence of a new bell houseing / trans / driveline etc., Mazda Miata engine and trans...fairly cheap compared to a Zetec setup and very sound with lots of proformance parts on the market and a good source of power, still have to modify the car some what to make it work plus locating an engine / trans that is from a low milage car in the local area might be a challenge, Toyota engine and trans means new driveline and mounts, etc. but lots of them around and lots of people that know about them.
I will most likely go with another B engine which will keep my car the same and I know the motors and it will fit without any modifications all though a good rebuild cost as much as a good pallet donner motor and trans from Flying Miata with shipping...I just don't know at this time as I am still thinking about it and how I am goingto convince the wife to let me spend more money on one of my toys.....maybe a trip to the Islands or a cruse is in order for the feature who knows at this point.
:7frog:

[slngsht]

If you have to spring for a trip to the islands or cruise vacation, aim high and put a Ferrari engine in it :D

[MHKflyer52]

If you have to spring for a trip to the islands or cruise vacation, aim high and put a Ferrari engine in it :D

A friend of mine just called me and said I can have the Jag V12 he has sitting at his shop if I want it....I don't think it will fit with out major mods though.
:7frog:

[scannon]

Mazda Miata engine and trans...fairly cheap

How to get a FREE Miata engine and transmission. Find the local salvage auction's website (I use this one) (http://www.klode.com/). Watch as they come along and when you see a low milage Miata ('00 is the best to work with) go and bid on it. Pull off the parts you need then strip out the rest and sell them on the Miata.net classifieds and Craigslist.

I did this to get the engine for my Caterham and when all the parts were sold, I had an 18k engine and trans and about $1,500 over my costs to put towards the build. I've since done it again and now have a spare engine and trans sitting in the shop should I need it.

Skip

[MHKflyer52]

How to get a FREE Miata engine and transmission. Find the local salvage auction's website (I use this one) (http://www.klode.com/). Watch as they come along and when you see a low milage Miata ('00 is the best to work with) go and bid on it. Pull off the parts you need then strip out the rest and sell them on the Miata.net classifieds and Craigslist.

I did this to get the engine for my Caterham and when all the parts were sold, I had an 18k engine and trans and about $1,500 over my costs to put towards the build. I've since done it again and now have a spare engine and trans sitting in the shop should I need it.

Skip

Hi Skip,

That is a good idea thatI had not considered before now so Thanks for the good info.
:7frog:

[MHKflyer52]

Well for all who care I finally decided to keep my car equipped with a BMC engine so I found an MGB GT that was in need of a new home and purchased it for the engine and trans. The Engine an 1800cc had a new head installed recently and a compression test showed that it is good and it runs and starts with ease and has good oil pressure without any knocks or noises and no overheating after running for a while in 109 degree temperature. The car was a project that lost its appeal of the previous owner and it was time for a new home for it so I acquired it at a far price and the previous owner is happy that it will be used appropriately. I will be parting it out after I get the engine out and then cleaned up and into the 7 so if anyone has a need for some good used parts for an MGB GT let me know.

[slngsht]

I always thought MGB GT's had the Rover V8 in them.

[scannon]

I always thought MGB GT's had the Rover V8 in them.

Only a few of them had the V8s. I don't believe the V8 version was ever sold in the states but some were brought in by individual owners.

There was also an MGC GT version with an inline six.

Skip

[MHKflyer52]

Mazda and Skip,

Their were a couple of MGB GT with the Rover V8 but as Skip stated they were far and few in the USA let alone in Europe. The MG C GT was a little more common but not all that much. Her is a link to a couple of photos of an MG C GTS works car that I know. :d
http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/EasterWeekendRoadTour/photo#5182655108739438370

Enjoy.

[MHKflyer52]

Well for all who care I finally decided to keep my car equipped with a BMC engine so I found an MGB GT that was in need of a new home and purchased it for the engine and trans. The Engine an 1800cc had a new head installed recently and a compression test showed that it is good and it runs and starts with ease and has good oil pressure without any knocks or noises and no overheating after running for a while in 109 degree temperature. The car was a project that lost its appeal of the previous owner and it was time for a new home for it so I acquired it at a far price and the previous owner is happy that it will be used appropriately. I will be parting it out after I get the engine out and then cleaned up and into the 7 so if anyone has a need for some good used parts for an MGB GT let me know.

Well I findly made the time to get the old deadengine out of the 7. Boy dose my 7 look naked now. I have added some photos of the process to the link if your interested.

http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OverheatingProblemBeingSolvedByReplacingEngine

Next step is to get the engine and trans out of the MGB GT and freshen it up while I clean the engine bay of the 7.
:7frog:

[slngsht]

link didn't work for me.

[BusaLoco]

Try this ... http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OverheatingProblemBeingSolvedByReplacingEngine

[MHKflyer52]

Try this ... http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OverheatingProblemBeingSolvedByReplacingEngine

Thanks BusaLoco for fixing the link. I had done some editing and forgot to update the post of the link.
Never said I was the sharpest one in the group.

[MHKflyer52]

Well no more overheating problems now as the new (rebuilt MGB motor) is in the car and the drive around the block was a lot of fun especially with the open headers...nice blue flame about six inches out of the pipes.

Here is a couple of photos of it while still in the shop and yes I know my shop is a mess but I know were almost all the tools are hiding.:d

If you look close in the first photo you can see the old dead engine in the back round.

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/31408231_DSCN0260.JPG

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/268721705_DSCN0262.JPG

[MHKflyer52]

Well I am really disgusted at the moment with my "7" as it has just been giving me all kinds of fits and small problems.
The new engine in my car has just been one thing after another. Today was the first time that I took it out for a run besides the trip around the block after getting it back into the chassis and running. That trip around the block showed me some small problems like an oil leak coming from the pushrod covers on the side of the block which are located behind the exhaust headers and below the intake manifold. Not the easiest place to get my hands into but I was able to replace the seals and fixed that leak. then this morning I figured I would drive my car to the monthly breakfast of the Porsche Club which just happed to be at the local airport and was the drive your other toy meeting so I figured I would drive the 7 to the breakfast and have some fun which I did until I decided to head back home. I got about a mile from the airport and just happened to notice my oil pressure was dropping while sitting at a red light. Pulled to the side and shut it down to find an oil line was leaking were the hose and fitting meet, (new hose but poor quality I guess) I was able to fix that small problem by removing both hoses to the oil cooler and using the other hose to make a loop that omitted the oil cooler until I could get home or so I though. While going down the freeway at 65mph all of a sudden my engine just quits and I find my self coasting and thinking now what is wrong. Well I got it over to the shoulder and found that the return line from the radiator to the choke is blown and has soaked the distributor and electronics so I just guess my ride was just not to be and that my 7 likes the shop bay more than it likes being out on the open road. Here are some photos of how we came home.
http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/TheTripHomeAug22008

[slngsht]

Man, that's a WHOLE lota trouble for one day. Yikes!

[BobDrye]

I know where you're at as I have been there. It does get better with time. Very few people understand the pain that you experience when you develop a car. I hope that you do enjoy working on the car during the process as that is the trick. There is a lot of satisfaction when the 7 becomes reliable. I spent all of yesterday changing my injection system from batch fire to sequential injection and now have to spend many more hours with the new fuel mapping. Keep your chin up, you’ll get thru it.

:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)

[11Budlite]

I feel for you Martin. I've had to deal with many pesky oil leaks, coolant leaks, and even a fuel leak with my '64 MGB. Don't know how many times I've been tempted to put a Zetec in it (already have the T9 tranny) just for the reduced maintenance and the increased performance. Hang in there, I'm sure you'll have it running fine soon. :)

Bruce :7drive:

[gjslutz]

Back in the day I had a MGA that required way too much time working on everything. A Little 283 Cu. IN. V8 and new drivetrain solved the problem. For the date? 327's just came out and were too much $$ for a poor kid like me. I know the pain!