PDA

View Full Version : Minilite Style


RacerDan
04-01-2008, 08:52 AM
Does anyone know of a Minilite style wheel ie. Panasport; Rota, that has a 5 bolt pattern that will fit the Stalker?

11Budlite
04-01-2008, 09:20 AM
I'd have to do some more research on 5-bolts for Panasports and Rotas, but I know Minilite style wheels have been used on some early 911's. Check out these Superlites: http://www.packracingproducts.com/acatalog/15__Superlite_Wheels.html#aSP15624PP

Bruce :7drive:

jbanker
04-01-2008, 10:37 AM
Does anyone know of a Minilite style wheel ie. Panasport; Rota, that has a 5 bolt pattern that will fit the Stalker?

Dan,

The builder of Stalker chassis #30 purchased a set of 15x7 Panasports to fit a 5 lug on 4-3/4 pattern. The back space should be 3-1/2" (6mm offset).
I know he had to order them and I think they came from CA.

I personally had talked to a dealer from PA in 2004 at the Kit Car Nationals in Carlisle and he indicated that he could get them for us.

Jack

RacerDan
04-01-2008, 12:00 PM
I've always had a real soft spot for Panasports. I wanted to put them on my 914 but never did. They would look awsome on a 7.

jbanker
04-01-2008, 01:02 PM
I've always had a real soft spot for Panasports. I wanted to put them on my 914 but never did. They would look awsome on a 7.

Dan,
Here are the Panasports on the car I mentioned earlier.
<http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2943>

Jack

locostv8
04-02-2008, 01:28 AM
How bout a real set of Minilites? 14x7 5 on 4.75
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/10092-3/DSC00616.JPG http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/10089-3/DSC00614.JPGhttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/10095-3/DSC00617.JPG

lowflyer
04-02-2008, 11:51 AM
I picked up a set of Superlites from Pack Racing about a year and half ago.

Love the looks, more in keeping with the "old time" Lotus 7 look, in my opinion.

I actually got a deal on them by purchasing them off of Ebay, saved about 70 bucks over their normal retail.http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1231876428_stalker212.jpg

weconway
04-02-2008, 02:09 PM
Gosh I love those wheels, but I wish they didn't weigh 19 lbs.

fnmag58
04-03-2008, 05:50 PM
Not to start a wild frantic discussion, but i am looking to replace the original stamped steel rims on my '82 with an aluminum wheel. Does it really make much difference if buy Panasports, Minilites, or Superlites? They are all close to the same pricing and look about the same. I've noticed the differences in weight, but for a street car for the occasional drive i dont think it really matters. I'm looking for a set of 7 x 13's(4 x 3.75" lug pattern), gotten quotes and ready to buy, but keep thinking there might be something i'm missing. Thoughts?

Kitcat
04-06-2008, 07:13 AM
Well, obviously the discussion is less than frantic:).

Light wheels seem to be every car nut's obsession. People spend thousands of dollars to shave off a few pounds per wheel. Some reasons are:

Wheels constitute unsprung weight. Unsprung weight is bad. Because it is unsprung it is harder for the suspension to control it and handling suffers, especially on bumpy surfaces. The ratio of unsprung weight to sprung weight is also important: anything you can do to reduce the ratio of unsprung to sprung is a plus. One (the only?) advantage of the Caterham's DeDion rear suspension over the live rear axle suspension is it cuts the unsprung weight of that suspension component, including the very heavy rear diff, in half. Thus, the DeDion's superior handling on rough surfaces.

Wheels are rotating mass. So their weight has to be squared to determine their effect. Thus a 5 pound per wheel savings in absolute weight is worth 25 lbs in rotational mass. Multiply that times 4 wheels and it's worth 100 lbs. Add in the additional unsprung weight advantage and the benefits of light weight wheels can be significant.

Bragging rights. Everyone wants the lightest wheel. My Miata came with stock wheels that weighed 9..8 lbs. Everyone was jealous.

fnmag58
04-12-2008, 04:46 AM
Thanks--my main concern was the quality, safety etc of the various maufacturers hence the possible discussions. Since that appears to not be the case, I went ahead and ordered the Superlites. After some internet research and e-bay, I found a better deal on the Superlites and saved even more.

fnmag58
04-24-2008, 02:58 PM
The new Superlites arrived and did the rim only check-fit, all looks well. Tomorrow, I'll mount one of the tires and perform the final clearance check before I mount all four. Thanks for all the help!

11Budlite
04-24-2008, 06:39 PM
Sal - would love to see pics once you have them mounted.

Bruce :7drive:

scannon
04-24-2008, 09:37 PM
Sal,

Where did you buy your set of Superlites?

Skip

fnmag58
04-25-2008, 04:42 AM
I'll post a picture as soon as I can. I purchased them from Mr. Bennett French at The British Connection. He has in interesting set-up. The common rims are in stock but he also has blanks. In my case, he took the blanks and CNC'd the PCD I needed. I could not find 13 x 7 with the 4 x 95.25 PCD (Ital Live Axle) so he made them! I bought 4 rims with center caps, lug nuts, and shipping for about $775. I really wanted the Minilites but at slightly over 1000 it was just to much for me. BTW, he can be reached at: thebritishconnection@yahoo.com

Ian7
04-25-2008, 12:54 PM
These are 6x13 Panasports, not the lightest on the market, but affordable and durable with the reality of todays roads.

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1656034501_BN rightrear.JPG

fnmag58
06-14-2008, 10:09 AM
Took me longer than expected but here is a picture of the rims: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1882770963_LH side view.jpghttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1128866834_LF Tire.jpg

I like the overall quality in both fit and finish. Many positive comments by other "car crazy" folks

solder_guy
08-01-2008, 01:39 AM
Beautiful!

I have the Konig Rewinds on my Rotus .. that fit my Toyota hubs: 4 x 100. Not the lightest but work for my road drive.

Rob

DB6
08-21-2008, 04:38 PM
I think you made the right choice, I am going to go the same way, as I said I have the 13 by 6 K N Jupiter wheel with new Toyo Proxes RA1 185/60/hr 13, with the GoodYear G800 in a 70 series as the spare,(unused and as new, make me an offer).I want to kep the Toyos as they have little wear but wonder should I go up tp the 7 inch wide over the stock 6, any advantages ,they are just a few bucks more on the price, again this car is just driven on the road, (quite hard when conditions allow).
So you say this wheel has to be machined to fit an 82 S7, did you get new caps and nuts thrown in, how was the balance, my Jupiters have enough lead weights to sink a ship.Oh I see they offer regular finish or for a fee polished, are yours the standard finish.What made you choose this brand over all the others that are so similar, I think K N in Telford UK actually makes the Minlites now.
My Car has the Marina Ital live axle, no idea what brakes, it was born in 1982 ( Long cock pit Super Sprint with a 1.7 Raceline engine , Qualfe LSD ,suspension mods and other changes made in 2002.,What info do I need to give a wheel supplier and what and how do I measure?

fnmag58
08-23-2008, 05:45 AM
Hi ***,
I went to the 7" to fit the new tires(P215-50R13) that came with the car as part of the "package of parts." The price difference was minimal. When i said machined, the company i purchased them from imports "blanks" from Australia--all they have to do is set them up on the CNC and machine in your choice of PCD and lug size. I was concerned about this but i am happy to say that the total runout measured was less than 0.002 on all four rims--and yes they came with center caps, lug nuts, and valve stems. These are the standard polished rims with clear coat. I chose these based on conversations with other 7 folks and the US based company. I have friends in Australia who verified the quality of the rims and acceptance by the local racing community. The other reason i purchased these was for the off-set. These rims have a backspace of 3.75" which gives me plenty of clearance around the suspension system. Other rim manufacturers had less which had me concerned--less overloads the brearings. I believe that for the tire size i am running, a bit more ~ 4 will still be acceptable. My car also was born in 1982, has the Ital axle, sounds like a duplicate of yours!! I am building a 1700 right now. The only information you need to tell the supplier is the PCD which, for your car is 4 X 95.25 with the 3/8 lugs(see earlier post). Let me know if you need additional data or help--took me a while to piece this all together. Sal

DB6
08-24-2008, 12:31 PM
Sal and all,
Great feedback, thanks everyone.
Who was the contact for the wheel,did you shop around? did they balance out well?I have enough lead on my orginal wheels to ballast a sail boat keel,and to be honest I just do not like the look of them it was a common problem with this wheel..
I have a set of Toyo Proxes RA1 185/60/13 (just 500 miles on em, so these are going on the new wheels), many are saying to the sixJ width for the new wheel, (my stock wheel is 13 by 6J from the factory( what do you think? If the 185,s would fit the 7 inch wide new wheel I could wear them out then next time go to your size.
Bt the way did you stick with the regular finish over the optional polished?
Regards
David
PS, Any one concerned or notice speedo error when switching tyre / wheel combos?
Again, just a street car only, with a RacelineUK 1.7 with 160 hp.

fnmag58
08-25-2008, 05:06 PM
David,
I did shop around and located a dealership in North Carolina. I suggest you work with the same company that has their shop in Arizona(Pack Racing). Regarding the balancing, my tires had the locating dot from the factory that alignes the tire in relationship to the valve stems. If you have the dots and the right folks who will take their time, little weights are needed. Locally, I used Bob Drye, he took his time and i have less than 2 ounces per tire!! For the 185's, 6 is the right size, a 7" rim will make them ballon out some. I wouldnt do that but it is your car--i understand the "use what you have" and buy biger next time. I went with the standard regular finish with the clear coat. I purchased mine from Mr. Bennett French at The British Connection--he can be reached at: thebritishconnection@yahoo.com I do need to recal the speedo as i went from 185/70 to 215/5's.

DB6
08-26-2008, 09:59 PM
Sal,
I am going with your wheel, (set of 5) unpolished finish,I am going to stick with the 185's, the wheel/tire combo has more than enough grip for my limited skills and the 160 hp of the car is enough for me..

I recall some years ago back in the UK, there was a wheel and tire company that was using a machine (this was on TV in the 80.s) New owners of Jag XJS,s were compaining of extreme vibration over 110 mph and thsi was offered to the pissed off owners.

) machine would spin the wheel and tire on the car over 100 mph,(It actually ended up being drive/propshafts that were out of balance on thes cars and not the wheels BUT... the deal being two fold:

1< if an owner companined about (what he assumed) was wheel/tire shimmy at over the legal road speed limit they would not put out a mechanic to test drive the car with the chance of him getting a ticket and pissing off the dealership's insurance company.

2) there was also the argument that if you balanced the wheel and tire on the car at speed on the car it allowed for all the variables of the whole set up,i.e rotor variances etc , and many other variables that could affect the total "perfect" balance for the whole package of the wheel being on the car versus on a spinning machine with just the rubber and wheel, to eliminate any vibration/ shimmy at any speed.

Is this type of machine still around, this was over 20 years ago?I.E on the car wheel balance, maybe wheel and tire tolerances are so much closer now that there is no need for such a machine.

HERE IS ONE GOOD TIP, ; get some BRIGHT paint , mask off the small area for the 4 jacking points and rattle can spray the jack points on your Seven.


Regards to all,
David